| August 2004 |
Sunday August 1st [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Headed to Cobbold Gorge on Robin Hood Station via Einasleigh Gorge and a pretty rough road. This privately run, oasis is worth the drive. The gorge tour is very quiet with the use of electric boat props to see the numerous freshwater crocodiles, archer fish (spray out a jet of water to catch flying insects) and unique (to the gorge) plant life. 2 hour tour and campsite $73.50/2persons and we enjoyed a nice meal and wine with an older English couple on the verandah. Monday - Tuesday August 2nd - 3rd [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Drove 450 kilometers to Karumba Inlet on the south eastern shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria. Booked ahead to a costly, crowded, fishing orientated caravan park, however the bird life including Brolgas and the famous Jabiru or Black Necked Stork (Australia's only stork) plus the nightly sunsets where a bonus. Clothes washing and interior Troopy clean-up plus batteries for portable UHF & GSM, repairs to the UHF radios antenna (radio power not working) and chair. Wednesday August 4th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Picked up fruit, vegetables, groceries and diesel and onto the Gulf Track towards Burketown. Were passed (the other way fortunately) by 88 vehicles from Melbourne and Adelaide football clubs on a safari/rally from Alice Springs to Cape Tribulation. Picked up a huge stone chip in the windscreen and concerned it might not last the 1000 kilometer Gulf Track. Visited Burke and Wills most northerly camp number 119, lunched at Leichhardt Falls and drove through Normanton to bush camp (Dysarts camp) on the banks of the Nicholson Creek at Escott Barramundi Lodge ($15/vehicle/night). Private, very quiet spot, got out the fishing gear and fished in fresh water. Played John Williamson CD who we just discovered and NZ Chris gave to us on the Cape trip - Drovers camp fire is a favorite. Thursday - Friday August 5th - 6th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] 300 kilometers in 5 hours over the rough, corrugated dirt roads and 4WD crossings over the O'Shannessy and Gregory Rivers is the maximum distance we want to drive in a day. Only saw 5 vehicles all day. 
Trip headed south from Burketown, down the Wills Development Road for diesel and wine at the Gregory Downs Pub, then a 150 kilometer detour to Australian Fossil Mammal (Riversleigh) World Heritage Area (D Site) in Boodjamulla, Lawn Hill NP. Fascinating paleontology site with a beaut new visitor information setup and 25 million year old fossils of big (250 kilogram) birds, turtles, crocodiles etc.
Camped at NP campground which we were very fortunate to book only the previous day. Cooked up a great chicken meal in the camp oven which only took 30 minutes. The birdlife is prolific which include the rare purple-crowned fairy-wren, darters and the tamest willy wagtail we've seen.
Speaking of tame, the wallabies are amazing. Turquoise waters (warm, and spring fed, high in calcium carbonate) edged by pandanus, cluster figs, Leichhardt trees, cabbage palms and large paperbarks and surrounded by the high red gorge limestone cliffs. Extremely tranquil 2 hour canoe trip where we spotted turtles sunning themselves plus Archer fish.
The splendor of color, wildlife and water in such a remote region is amazing. High/low temperatures are 32/10 C in the dry season and we are thankful we brought our duvet. Continually amazed by both foreign backpackers and Australian couples who tour the country, funded by the plentiful, casual, seasonal jobs across the vast country.
Saturday Agust 7th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Via a 4WD track for scones and coffee at Bowthorn Station, owned by the McGinnis family who are brothers and sisters, cattle station owners, great hosts and an author of books. Onto Kingfisher Camp, another truly amazing oasis on an island overlooking the Nicholson River. Perfect shady campsite on green grass with very clean amenities - just amazing in such an isolated spot. Sunday August 8th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] 300 kilometer push over dirt roads (the VB highway as Doomagee to the east is a dry Aboriginal town) to Hells Gate Roadhouse (highest diesel price yet @ $1.42/liter) and strange people - they all come and stare while you are in the shop paying). They are reputed to generate $500,000 in VB revenue/year. Onto the Northern Territory border with quick lunch at Wollogorang Station. They shoot feral pigs for export to Germany. Trips to Tully and Massacre inlets are $50/vehilcle/2 nights + $100 trash removal deposit. 80 kilometer trip is 3 hours 4WDriving. We got prior permission to head 65 kilometers into Pungalina Station to camp on Surprise Creek for $40. This was truly a most amazing experience and our most isolated spot yet. The purple flowered myrtle and yellow wattles lined the 4WD track in with creeks crossings and heavy sand. The "homestead is at the end of an airstrip which brings wealthy people into an experience safari camp @ $340/night/person. Owen Davies and his helper Stony (from Pt Augusta with Copbah the boxer) were off to make a road out to the next door neighbors stations as contractors where planning to round up the feral cattle. These men are very experienced cattlemen, rangers, bushmen and mechanics. The natural springs and creeks offer warm water, perfect for swimming, bream fishing and plentiful birdlike including black cockatoos, barking owls etc. On the way back to the homestead form the camp we spotted the 2 homestead bitches with a wild dingo, father to the pups. Monday August 9th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] After a late start we pushed onto Borroloola, on Aboriginal land for supplies and then King Ash Bay, a famous NT fishing spot. Only alcohol you can take-away is beer in these towns. Quick wash and shared a campfire with a couple from Noosa Heads - Larry is at the fire service there. Barramundi was not being caught as the water temperatures are too low as the high/low temperatures are 30/8 C. Tuesday August 10th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Checked out Batton Bay, Borroloola museum (quite intriguing information on Leichhardt's expedition and the local aborigines) and had lunch and a bush walk at Caranbirin Conservation Reserve where the sandstone formations are truly amazing. Camped on the grass at Cape Crawford, fixed the chairs and few other minor repairs. Unfortunately their generator ran all night so our sleep was disturbed. Wednesday - Thursday August 11th - 12th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] 
On the 300 kilometer Nathen River Road towards Roper Bar we spotted Lorella Springs Station and decided to go in 30 kilometers to this rustic campsite with natural springs, run by a young enthusiastic couple. Very relaxing, out of the way place. Partied with a 4WD group from Ipswich the first night; boy can Queenslanders drink. Next day met David Ireland, famous wildlife expert and his film crew (Abraham and Peter) going a Wildlife Adventures documentary for Channel Nine TV.
They were a bit disappointed with the lack of a guide and wildlife so I recommended Pungalina Station; David Owens sent a subsequent note indicating a February 2005 documentary entitles "Swimming with Pythons". David shot a troublesome feral bull near the camp on the first night. These stations lack the wildlife because of feral bulls, pigs, dogs and cats. And the Aboriginals either don't know or care about these things anymore.
CC made friends with Helen and we also met a great 80+ year old couple Bess and Don who had been traveling the outback for over 20+ years.
Friday August 13th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Off again, finding the Second Lost City incredible sandstone formations, lunching by a billabong and stopping by the Loramieum Lagoon at the St. Vidgoen ruins for a fabulous campsite. This is the only place so far there was nobody else camping. Tried the built-in shower off the back of the Troopy and it was excellent. The bird life including white cranes and ibis were plentiful. Only passed 4 other vehicles on the road today. Camp sites at Butterfly Gorge and Towns River looked real good also. Saturday - Sunday August 14th - 15th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Finally made our way via Roper Bar to Materanka, signposted as SH (Stuart Highway). Spotted a lot of large wedge-tail eagles on road kill. Nice lunch at the Stockman Gallery, entertained by the antics of the honey-eater birds under the cool trees. Have not seen a Telstra phone box (land line) for a week or been able to listen to the radio (missing ABC north Queensland's excellent programming) or see an internet café for two weeks. Wine and Bundy mixes are impossible to purchase at pubs for over 3 weeks. Onto Katherine for two days. There was a lot of burning off of the countryside all over the Gulf Track region. Took two of us 4+ hours to clean up all the bull dust inside the Troopy. Repaired the bed and notified Trakka by e-mail. Met a young English couple while watching thousands of flying foxes heading south. Washed clothes, viewed e-mail, collected mail, and purchased groceries and wines/port/bundies/beers for the next leg north to Kakadu NP. Applied for a permit to travel to Gove Peninsula from the NT Land Commission. Monday August 16th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Headed to Kakadu NP, World Heritage Area and made first camp at Gunlom (Waterfall Creek). Due to the dry season, only a trickle of water but a fine plunge pool. NP charges $65/2 persons for Kakadu and Ularu NPs + $10.80/night/2 persons to camp with showers/toilets. Plan to stay a week in the NP. Enjoyed the slide show put on by both white and aboriginal, park rangers - pointed out that there is a huge cultural difference between the two. Tuesday August 17th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Onto Maguk (Barramundi Creek) for a tough walk to the top plunge pools over looking the waterfall and bottom plunge pool. Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural center was very well done and informative. High/low temperatures are now 33/15 C (although the Troopy interior rises to 45 C during the day) so we made camp earlier in a shady spot at Mardugal. Decided not to invest any time at the touristy Gagudju Cooinda Lodge and Yellow Waters area. Mosquitoes starting to become troublesome and using the burning coils and magic mix (50% methylated spirits and rest an equal mixture of baby oil, lavender and Detol). Next morning during the 2 kilometer billabong walk we spotted a 2+ meter olive python (with distinctive shaped head) slowly inching its way across the track. Just the time we didn't take the camera! Wednesday August 18th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] The last 20 kilometers of the 4WD track to Jim Jim and Twin Falls were very arduous and slow with 1 meter high water crossing to the latter. Twin Falls were running; this spot (and beach) are spectacular and worth the difficult walk. Met a NT Parks and Wildlife scientist at the Jim Jim camp area. They were spending 6 weeks to confirm a rare lizard, unknown to aborigines and only on the Arnhem Land Escarpment. He believed the NP's system to be about conservation, but was now political and corrupt. As a previous Kakadu park ranger he also felt that the special interest groups including aborigines were uneducated about many issues (including the indiscriminate burning off of the vegetation) and damaging the parks flora and fauna. An example of poor management was Jim Jim camp, which had a brand new $1.5 million amenities area, but 2 not one which is unnecessary, poor/no shade trees, rocky campsites, railings poorly positioned etc. Interesting stuff!! Thursday August 19th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Big hiking day, quite hot and needed plenty of water. Doubled our active, cold water bottles from 2 to 4 and started using Gatorade. Climbed Mirrai Lookout for a fantastic 360 degree view of the whole of Kakadu NP. Didn't take water; as it was a short climb, which turned out to be quite strenuous - won't make that mistake again and now we both carry water bottles. The Anbangbang Gallery of native rock art at Nourlangie Rock is very impressive. 
Lunch and walked around the beautiful Anbangbang Billabong with the backdrop of the Rock. Free camped at Sandy Billabong just south of Muirella Park. Set up the rear tent awning (works well) to avoid the mosquitoes and had a private shower. Hot shower water generated by engaging the interior heater control about 15-20 minutes prior to pulling up.
Our 50/35 liter cold/hot tanks typically provide 2 weeks water supply for drinking, food preparation and dish washing, however this drops rapidly to 10 days if you shower once and 5 days if you shower twice (probably using 25-30 liters for 2 showers). We always have a back-up of 4 liters inside the vehicle and carry a water bag on the front for any radiator troubles.
A German female tourist was killed by a crocodile at this Billabong last year while swimming at night with others including the irresponsible tour operator. We saw pictures of this huge, 4.6 meter crocodile during a Parks & Wildlife slide show on the crocodile subject, presented by an aboriginal NP Ranger, the following evening.
Friday August 20th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] One third of Australia's bird species exist in Kakadu NP. Spent 2 hours of first light viewing the incredible bird life of Sandy Billabong. Over the misty waters covered in flowering water lilies, spotted Darters, pairs of Green Pygmy-Geese, single White-Necked (Pacific) Heron, all the Egrets (Great, Little and Intermediate), flock of Australian White Ibis, Combed-Crested Jacana, Masked Lapwing, Little Ringed Plover and single Black Kite. Right on the shoreline, in front of our camp, flocks of Plumed Whistling-Duck (including a family with 7 ducklings) and Wandering Whistling-Duck coexisted. 2 brown kites also attacked a sea eagle from venturing into their territory. Bowali Visitor Center was worth a look and picked up a few supplies in Jabiru before enjoying the spectacular x-ray native paintings at Ubirr, situated on wonderful rocks surrounded by native plants and bird life - fascinating spot; if you only do one thing in NT check out this place. There are apparently 10,000 art sites in Kakadu; 50% undiscovered. Noisy camp at Merl but met an interesting Dutchman with very negative views on America and a young, well Aussie traveled Swiss couple. Saturday August 21st [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Yesterday, Johnnie at the Bowali Visitor Center suggested we attend the Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) Open Day in Arnhem Land, which did not require a permit. Crossed the East Alligator River before high tide and immediately noticed an incredible countryside change; beautiful rugged cliffs, huge leafed lilies on the lagoons. Spotted 3 Jabirus on one lagoon alone, including one eating a snake. Wild brumbies prevalent at another. Spent a few hours viewing their X-Ray art, enthusiastic Australian Rules football game, fund raising for children and scientific review of Ranger's uranium mine activities. Came back into Kakadu, missing the NT bash (150+ sponsored vehicles, driving across the state and raising over $1M of kids) for our last camp at Alligator Billabong. Immediately on arrival, spotted a 2+ meter, saltwater crocodile swimming (total length is 7x distance from nose to eyes); but moved below the water line before a picture was taken. Now how far should one camp from the bank of a billabong containing salties? We thought 6 meters from a 1.5 meter high bank was safe, but lit a big fire. Next morning, spotted a male water buffalo which is rare as they are being eradicated from the park, due to their destructive nature, especially around billabongs. Sunday - Thursday August 22nd - 26th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Headed to Darwin for 5 days, 2 days at Shady Glenn Park, close to the city (and the noisy RAAF base with jets and submachine gunfire) and 3 days south at the nicer Howard Springs Park. As it is drawing closer to springtime in the south and European holidays are ending, the caravan parks are less crowded and more pleasant. Darwin is pleasant, lots of nice shady parks with a very friendly, laidback population well over 100,000 including all the surrounding suburbs, including the rapidly growing Palmerston to the south. Enjoyed the music (amazing multi-didgeridoo player), shopping and food at the Mindil Beach markets on Sunday, seafood and a sunset at 2 restaurants (including a seafood buffet) around Cullen Bay. 
Amazingly, we caught up with Warren and Patsy from Brisbane at Shady Glen having originally met them, camped next to us at Karunda and then again at Liechhardt Falls, Lawn Hill NP, Mataranka and on the 4WD track out to Jim Jim Falls (six times is quite a coincidence). Reminisced the trip, shared experiences and days activities. Did all the mandatory clean-up of Troopies interior, clothes etc.
Shopped for better clothes, few necessary vehicle spares and tools send off paperwork to regain NSW driver's license, spend 2 hours on the internet (bummer we have to pay an additional $35K in US taxes). Unfortunately the bed hinges finally broke, so although the gas struts do not lift the bed, it is still functional using the rear awning poles. Trakka seems pretty helpful and will find a proper repairer in Darwin, and send the parts hopefully for our return.
Atypically for us, enjoyed the excellent Territory Wildlife Nature Park at Berry Springs - so interesting to get closer to the mammals, reptiles and birds we have seen in the wild, confirm various flora and fauna and view the unseen nocturnal species. Enjoyed the company of Jeff and Janine from Apollo Bay, but quite taken back by the brash lady from Lake Macquarie, originally from northern Queensland. We were not all that taken with Darwin and do not believe we could live there.
The federal Department of Defense is very prevalent in the north, not just the historic World War II relics and airstrips, but large and numerous Army, Navy, RAAF bases and American satellite bases.
Friday - Thursday August 27th - 31th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Great news came the previous Monday morning, having called Parks and Wildlife on the off chance of a cancellation, got permission to go to Coburg Peninsula, 570 kilometers NE of Darwin. This region is remote even by Australian standards and only 20 vehicles are allowed at any time; the permit allows you to travel through a little of Arnhem Land. 7 nights camping permit is $232.10. So a very early start at 6.30 a.m. to check out Les Steward's suggestion of Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve. This dam was originally built in the 1950's for the failed rice industry ay Humpty Doo and is now a wetlands region teaming with birds (and mosquitoes). Should have spent more time but got to see Magpie Geese and Forest Kingfisher. It takes 3+ hours from Darwin to get to Cahill's Crossing on the East Alligator River to beat the high tide. Then 4+ hours on a tough 4WD, dirt road to Black Point Ranger's Station (for permit check-in) at the Garig Gunak Barlu NP. The creek crossing just east of Murgenella was amazing; the water was teaming with fish trying to cross the causeway and the incredible variety and number of birds; saw a Pied Heron and Little Kingfisher during lunch. Again the color changes along the roads continue to amaze us since the Cape trip with white sandy patches, grey smooth road, red corrugations, yellow stony sections etc. This is a bit hard to appreciate unless you've done/seen it. The shady, private campsites at Smith Point are divided into generator/non generator sites; becoming more common in bush camping areas. There are composite toilets and a cold shower (perfect for hot days). There are also four huts. The store opens for 2 hours, 6 days/week and runs tours, boat hire and fishing charters. The beaches are pristine with turquoise water, loads of coral, shells, driftwood and un spoilt coastal vegetation. On Saturday afternoon we did the coastal 4WDrive, takes about an hour and the color changes of the sands along the beaches are spectacular. Forgot to take off our tow bar step but found it next morning along the track along with a wallaby and a dingo. Relaxed and caught up on some reading and planning. Enjoyed some of Christine's new bush cooking. |