| March 2005 |
Tuesday - Sunday March 1st - 6th [more pictures] Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Monday - Wednesday March 7th - 9th [more pictures] Stayed with Christine's ex Sydney friend Karla (and her daughter Alana), who she re met in Perth 18 years ago. She has a very nice town house in South Perth and we enjoyed a BBQ and 7 bottles of wine (not to mention beers and scotches) over 12 hours. Unfortunately most of the conversation revolved around her divorce from Linden 3 years prior, but we caught up on all her news about Vickie Regan (and their trip to Italy) and her possible new life in Melbourne. Christine and I decided to get stricter on our blood group A diet and so did a big grocery shop as Perth is really the last bastion before heading north. We also decided to give up on alcohol for a while. Got some refunds from Medicare for Christine's operation in Adelaide. Chris's got a new frame for his glasses. Christine doctor's visits included a mammogram at the WA women's screening clinic, general and women's doctor and final acupuncture. Preceding our arrival in Perth we both had a good feeling about the beauty and laid back nature of the city, but after 18 years it has changed to a growing, bustling city which is a bit dull and quite conservative. Finally, started heading north along the coast and drove 1¼ hours through the recently burnt out Yanchep NP, arriving at Guilderton on the Moore River inlet at 6 p.m. Thursday March 10th [more pictures] Really enjoyed the pleasant, friendly van park. Shade under the tamarisk and sheoak tress on the grass with numerous ducks and a sea eagle. Protected from the wind. New amenities and only $16/night so stayed 2 nights. Did our washing and cleaned the interior of the Troopy. The van park is right on the inlet and Nick/Nadia caught us a freshwater brim for dinner. We walked a fair section of the beach and relaxed for the rest of the day. Started to learnt and play Scrabble to keep the mind active and add to the numeracy of cribbage. Friday March 11th [more pictures] Headed north to Lancelin and decided not to take the 5 hour 4WD track to The Pinnacles. Thoroughly enjoyed the numerous tamala limestone (aerolian calcarenite) formations in Nambung NP - this is truly a unique Australian landscape. Learnt about the 3 ridges of sand dunes that exist along the coast in both directions and as far south as Busselton. The first is vegetated by tough flora the second by melalucas and the third by banksias (which were very prevalent on the way). 
Via the coastal fishing towns of Cervantes and Jurien continued north camping at Sandy Cape. This was recommended by some British Leyland 4WD Club we met in Guilderton, who wanted to check out our vehicle. They have done much of the work around the campsite and can camp on the beach free-of-charge. The council currently charges $15.40 for a drop toilet, but plan to add a shower. Checked out the gypsum 'mine' and white sand deposits.
The sand dunes are huge and protect both the beach and campsite from the endless south westerly wind. We decided to stay, despite the cost because of the isolation which was completely disrupted by 2 local Jurien families camping right in our area. Despite our concern we warmed to each other and enjoyed an evening chat (with the local policeman, who popped out during working hours) about living in Jurien, good spots up the coast and Australian travel.
They were noisy but fun loving country Australians with polite kids. Land prices have trebled over the last 5 years and progress has meant:1. The local shire council has removed all the old, run down beach shacks from Lancelin to Leeman. 2. Jurien caravan park, owned by the council and new released has removed all the permanents to make way for vacation cabins with $750/week weekly revenues. 3. Most people we have met recently as quite upset with CALM new developments. Saturday March 12th [more pictures] Passed the fishing villages of Green Head, Leeman and Port Denison all with currently actively fishing for Western Rock lobster (locally known as crayfish) with medium sized boats. Camped on the foreshore and Irwin River inlet at Dongara, which has great Morton Bay tress in the main street. Enjoyed the scenic overlook for lunch and walks along the river boardwalks and Indian Ocean. Fantastic sunset. Sunday - Monday March 13th - 14th [more pictures] Headed inland to Coalseam Conservation Park (again recommended by the 4WD club). It rained all day due to an offshore cyclone but the views and scenery were worth the 240 kilometer round trip. Vivid colors of various rock strata from the river bed and river bend rock face including the black coal. The various greens of the trees and scrubs under the grey sky plus the prolific flying insects above the wet trees made from the long awaited rain added to the trip. 
Headed into Geraldton (not 'Sun City' while we were there), checked out the Tourist Information center, drove around the quite town on a Sunday and camped at the Greenough van park on the Greenough River mouth. The cyclone off the north west coast kept heavy cloud cover for the 2 days and the temperatures down to high/lows of 26/20 C.
Unfortunately this and 2.5 - 3 meter swells stirring up the silt and seaweed prevented us from touring the Houtman Abrolhos Island groups, known for their shipwrecks, untouched beauty, birdlife and snorkeling the coral reefs. We did catch documentaries about these islands and the barbaric history of the shipwreck Batavia in 1629, at the fantastic new Gerladton Museum. The Dutch East India Company was therefore the first white settled in Australia, 150 years before the English.
We spent 3 hours there enjoying the displays on the shipwrecks and local history; most unlike us. Also viewed the memorial to HMAS Sydney where 645 sailors lost their life without trace during the WWII. Christine got our bed sheet repaired and Chris picked up 4WD maps on the NW and SW deserts which we might travel later in the year.
Tuesday - Saturday March 15th - 19th [more pictures] 42.6 degrees Celsius (117 degrees Fahrenheit) on Tuesday and that's bloody hot. Stocked up on groceries at Woolworths, fish at the fish market and diesel in Geraldton and headed north via Northampton and Port Gregory. During lunch under the shade at Northampton van park met Ken or 'Tex' who has been traveling for 17 years, much in the Pilbara. As in other cases he was on a disability pension and had a 30 year old Toyota Troopy. Inducted into an aboriginal family, quite feral and knew lot of free campsite which we shared. Visited Princess Shirley and Prince Leonard at Hutt River Province, a sovereign stated succeeded from Australia 36 years ago. We did not stop for the tour, based on the bored expressions on the young backpacker listing to prince Leonard talk to fast. Had their own post office, stamps, currency and church. Did not get to understand what 'angle' they were pulling but guessed it had something to do with taxation. Found out later from a local it was being told by the wheat board on what quantity they could grow. Pulled into Kalbarri NP, checked out the sea cliffs and camped under the shade and on the green grass at the less crowded van site at Red Bluff. Walked the beach. Enjoyed more cliff walks and a rainbow, one of the few we have seen on the trip. Toured the gorge formed by the Murchison River in the NP, within view of a bush fire creating a huge cloud. Swam in the Indian Ocean at a great, small private beach at Pot Alley. Also swam in the Murchison River mouth. Lunched at the Black Rock café overlooking the river mouth on locally caught sweat rock lobster with Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc. Read books under the shelter on Chinaman's beach. Moved to the Top Tourist Murchison van park for two more days. After a big night at the tavern, meeting up with the Swedish girls, sat around and read books overcoming a hangover. Sunday March 20th [more pictures] Replenished supplies at the local grocery store and headed north to Shark Bay, an Eco-Wonder and one of the only 11 places in the world that met all 4 criteria of the World Heritage Region. I believe this is to do with: 1. Wildlife, for example, there are 14,000 dugongs (sea cows) grazing on huge areas (400,000 hectares) of sea grass 2. Endangered wildlife; CALM has initiated Project Eden eradicating feral goats, rabbits, cats and goats with 1080- poison and erecting an electric fence to successfully bring back mallee fowl, bilby and woylie 3. Unique scenery; red bluffs on white sand beaches with aquamarine waters 
4. Unique flora; Hamlin Pool cyno-bacteria (blue-green), 3,500 million years oldStopped for lunch at a station bore with windmill pumping water to a tank and troughs for sheep and goats. Place reeked of dead animals. Passed by many beautiful beaches due to the white sands and aquamarine waters, then through Denham and onto Monkey Mia Resort. CALM charges $6/head to visit then bottlenose dolphin beach. The resort caters for tenters ($9/head), camp spots ($22/2 persons), backpackers ($32/person) and luxury villas ($200/night). No shade and busy, even for this time in the season. Christine prepared cold prawn with mango, avocado, romaine lettuce and Caesar salad dressing which we enjoyed with a cheaper Gnanaga (Evans and Tate) Chenin Blanc. Joined Mike in the backpackers outside tavern for a few beers. Also we are now north of the 26 degree parallel and life, the flora and fauna and even the laws of the land, so some say change compared to the south. Monday March 21th [more pictures] Got down to the beach at 7.30 a.m. and there might have been 100 people standing in the water at knee height watching 8-10 wild, female, bottlenose dolphins. This crowd builds to 400 in the height of the season. We must have stayed there for an hour watching them watching us and finally getting fed. The pelicans were also entertaining and it's the first time I had seen children patting their sleeping heads. Two additional feedings last till about 11 a.m. The CALM dolphin display and film documentaries were also interesting. Ran into a young Dutch couple and older English couple whom we enjoyed chatting to. Headed into Francois Peron NP, lunched at the Peron Homestead that explains the fruitful flora and fauna conservation program titled the Eden Project. Rescued an older English tourist from Herald Bight campsite as it was very sandy and his rented Mitsubishi all-wheel drive could not get him back through the softer sand, even with lower tire pressures. Took him to harder ground on the birridas or salt pans. I believe the Swiss couple, also in a Troopy, and I convinced him not to venture into other regions of the park but on the next day we did check that he did not go to Big Lagoon. Had our second puncture in the sand near Cape Peron. Only took 30 minutes to change this time, but it was again the passenger side, rear tire. This was also a relatively new tire, purchased in Alice Springs with only 21,000 kilometers or wear; it was completely ruined with a major piece of tread removed by the spike. The good thing about having the new bumper fitted with dual tire and wheel combination was we could proceed to Steep Point which another spare tire in reserve. Very sandy getting into the camping spots and picked Bottle Bay as there was nobody there, so had a beach to ourselves for nude bathing with a couple of dolphins. Camped right on the beach as there was no tide, protected by Dirk Hartog Island where lighthouse lights were visible in the evening. Christine enjoyed this spot. Tuesday March 22th [more pictures] We went into Big Lagoon, where only a small area is accessible; it's a great spot with good pink snapper fishing. Enjoyed a hot tub and shower at the Peron Homestead. The windmill brings up 44 degree C water 1,750' or 540 meters and the green lawn and trees are a haven for birds including the thick-billed grass wren. Picked up diesel in Denham and dropped into the CALM office where we were able to contact the Ranger at Steep Point to get permission to go to Steep Point. Stopped by Eagle Bluff where you can see tiger sharks swimming and make out an Aboriginal fishing mound in the shallow turquoise waters. Also checked out Shell Beach where gazillions of tiny, bivalve Cardiid Cockle shells in L'Haridon Bight that survived their predators due to the salinity being twice that of normal seawater. Pat and Paul Dickerson (phone 08-99483, UHF Ch 15, VHF Ch 16) are the Rangers for Carrarang Station. It is 140 kilometers from the bitumen turnoff and the last 45 kilometers are 4WD with huge, torturous sand dunes requiring 20 psi tire pressure. The trip took 4 hours from Denham and we arrived after 5 p.m. The cost is $20/vehicle entry, $5/person/night + 10% GST. We were amazed that so many people were there tenting on the beach but discovered that Steep Point and South Passage are famous fishing spots including the fighting Spanish mackerel. They gave us an exposed spot near Amos as we intended only to stay a night and many families were spending additional days either side of the 4 day Easter public holiday (Thursday to Monday). Had cold, tinned red salmon and tasty salad for dinner. Very windy (and sandy) start to the night but the wind finally dropped; fortunately the evening temperatures are in the low 20's C. Wednesday March 23th [more pictures] Drove out to Steep Point the most westerly place in Australia. We have now done the easterly (Byron Bay), northern (Cape York) and now the western extremities of the continent. Took a GPS reading of S 26,08,654, E 113,09,527 (hddd.mm,mmm') on the cliffs at 97' elevation. Heaps of cairns, but did not identify the Leyland Brothers cairn erected in 1966. Noticed the balloon tracers and spoke to a couple of fisherman about the high quality of the sport fishing off the cliffs. Decided to head back before any additional crowds were on the 4WD track. Glad we did, as a convoy of 6 vehicles with off-road caravans and big boats were approaching as were pumping up our tires, back to normal pressure. We advised them that their trip could be difficult as we had only seen tenters, boats under 14' and the road was the worst in many years. I don't know how they got on. Visited the amazing Hamelin Pools where the oldest and largest living fossils in the world, stromatolites, exist in the very salty seawater. These 3,500 million year old cyno-bacteria (blue-green) living fossils were only diagnosed in 1975. They are also found in the Bahamas. Decided to head to Carnarvon, an additional 240 kilometers and got there about 5 p.m. Crossed the 26 degree parallel again and into different vegetation. Lot of dead, wild goats on the roadside. Thursday - Friday March 24th - 25th [more pictures] Stayed at a Top Tourist van park for 3 nights to rest up from all the driving, clean the Troopy interior and wash clothes. Shady treed areas with green grass were comforting after the exposed beaches. Fortunately, on Thursday morning was able to get a 75,000 kilometer local Toyota Troopy service and a replacement tire (Goodyear Wrangler 235/85 R16 for $265 fitted and balanced). 
The town is small, has mango and banana crops and is easily identified by the OTC dish that was a US satellite tracking and space station for the NASA Apollo and Gemini missions from 1966 but closed after Halley's Comet in 1987. Carnarvon has a 1 mile jetty with railway across the mangroves and a small boat harbor on the Fascine, the south arm of the Gascoyne River mouth.
Drove north to Quobba Homestead and viewed the second HMAS Sydney Memorial, blowholes that were working due to the bigger swells associated with a full moon. Also saw a beta carotene farm which collects the algae off the salt waters from under Lake MacLeod. Easter is early this year and the 4 day Australian Easter break started with Easter Friday and a nice fish meal at dinner.
Remet up with a young couple Maria and Brett with a young child Lachlan; initially met them pumping up their tires on the Steep Point road and then again at the blowholes and the van park. Also met Justin (from SA) and Sandy a young couple from Perth vacationing and working around Aust. Chris enjoyed 'Of Mice and Men" authored by John Steinbeck.
Saturday March 26th [more pictures] Stocked up on groceries, diesel and second-hand books and checked e-mails at the library before venturing east via Gascoyne Junction to the Kennedy Ranges NP. Checked out the trails, whose landscape reminded us of Sedona in Arizona with the large red rock outcrops. Camped at the mouth of 'The Tempe' gorge; this was the 11th very isolated campsite in a year or 3% of the nights which we have had completely to ourselves. The hike into the gorge obtained some great photos. Lots of flies and very hot with high/low temperatures of 40/25 degree C. Enjoyed a full moon rise before the cloud cover smothered it and kept evening temperatures high. The spot was very quiet and made bird noises, like the grey butcherbird and crows, louder than normal. Sunday March 27th [more pictures] Arose early due to the heat and headed 300 kilometers towards Mt Augustus or Burringurrah NP. Spotted the biggest goanna or bungarra on the roadside. Stopped at Cobra Station (actually a historic pub) and Jim (prospector who leases the historic pub from CALM) offered us a job. We considered it carefully, slept on it and returned next day to decline his offer as we still have the travel bug and therefore our hearts would not be in it. It is very isolated place (closest town is Carnarvon, 500 kilometers away) but an oasis and had a real Aussie outback feel. Drove around Mt Augustus which is the biggest rock in the world; covered in vegetation and a monocline - uplifted and folded sandstone accumulation over 1,650 - 1,900 year old granite. At 717 meters high it is twice the size of Uluru and three times older. Due to the drought there were many dead kangaroos and subsequent stench on the trails. Stayed at Mt Augustus Station which has plentiful water, green lawns and shade trees. The aboriginal children who were playing with the hose on our arrival were very interested in our Troopy which we showed them. This working station had cattle and calves being hand fed in the stock yards, horses, diesel electric generators and a Cessna airplane and landing strip. Enjoyed a drink in the pub with 3 other couples from the Perth region and enjoyed pasta with squid (made with Henschke's verjus) and a bottle of red wine for Easter Sunday dinner. A big dog crunched on kangaroo carcasses and kangaroos munched on the grass as we went to bed. Monday March 28th [more pictures] The sunrise on Mt Augustus was a delight to awaken to and enjoyed watching the Australian ringneck parrots drink from the sprinklers over breakfast. Left early at 7.30 a.m. for the long, hard 470 kilometer trip back to Coral Bay on the coast. The 380 kilometers of dirt road took 6 hours due to floodways, washouts and dips and the loose sand and rock surface. Spotted a pair of huge camels on Cobra Station. The Troopy interior was filthy on our arrival, so we did a quick clean up and clothes wash. Our neighbors are semi retired York farmers, who also were involved in a failed, Australian backed joint venture in Thailand manufacturing decorative light fitting for hotels. After building and then selling their retirement home they occasionally live in an apartment in Perth, but spend most months working in van parks, living out of a small Mazda campervan and trailer. They got into this in Jabiru in Kadadu NP, NT and Gloria works in the booking office and Philip does gardening. The two Coral Bay van parks are very popular with young people and families but we got a spot as Easter holidays had ended. Fortunately we are between Easter and school holidays, the later is booked out 3 years in advance. Very high site cost of $25 for unpowered, $29 for power and $33 near the beach. This is due to high cost of electricity generation and desalination as the bore water is hot and salty. Walked along the beach and had a couple of drinks at the pub in the Ningaloo Reef Resort as the sun set. Now we are north of the Tropic of Capricorn (23 1/3rd degrees I think). Tuesday - Wednesday March 29th - 30th [more pictures] A couple of days without driving after completing over 1,000 kilometers on the outback loop in the last 3 days. Relaxed on Coral Bay beach and did some snorkeling on the reef as there are a multitude of small to quite large fish to be seen right off the beach. Also saw sea cucumber and manta rays. The water temperature is also high due to the Leeuwin current and it's easy to drift with the current down the reef. Chris enjoyed the book 'Fiesta' authored by Ernest Hemmingway. Met up with Robyn and Terry and had a good night starting with a few happy hour drinks at the pub and a prawn pizza with a couple of bottles of red. Chris was a little ticked off with the pizza place as they charged an additional dollar to us a visa credit card. Interestingly they had traveled by car (on sealed roads) through the top end of Australia during the wet season and were lucky not to be inconvenienced. Met up again with Brett, Maria and Laughlin and Justin and Sandy. Thursday March 31th [more pictures] Headed north about 100 kilometers along the coast and over the rough 4WD track via Cardabia and Ningaloo Stations. Lots of kangaroos and emus. The only 4WD section was over the Yardi Creek sandbar. The creek and subsequent gorge is scenic and a school of small fish were leaping out of the water, probably in reaction to a larger chasing predator. Most of Cape Range NP is bitumen and we chose a campsite at Pligramunna where Pilgonaman Creek enters the sea. Very protected swimming spot as we are not strong swimmers. During twilight we got some sea squalls and wind driven rain so we cooked inside for the third time of the whole trip so far. The chicken mince rissoles and corn were excellent. The Swiss couple we saw in Cape Peron were also there. |