| May 2005 |
Sunday May 1st [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Helped Rich replace a tire on his rented campervan. Foreign renters have no clue and should not be driving these campervans into these places as they have no proper gear with them; for instance Rich could not use his jack, had no tire pressure gauge etc. Headed back to the Kalumburu Road and viewed some very interesting aboriginal rock art at two spots off tracks close to the King Edward River. The 'Bradshaw' rock art has been difficult to age date and is predicted to be done before current indignities times, perhaps 17,000 years ago; this makes it the oldest art in the world (along with the famous rock art in France). Fortunately, the Kalumburu Road (more like a track really) had been graded but it was still pretty slow going, as often the garder had pushed up big rocks and there were some jolting ridges along the track. Kalumburu on a Sunday is closed but spotted a policeman cruising around and the priest hiking to the gorge. Because of cyclone Ingrid two months ago, the northern beach campsites at McGowan Island (top spot) overlooking Napier Broome Bay and Honeymoon Bay (fishing spot) overlooking Mission Bay where completely devastated and even the limbs and leaves were ripped off the trees. Pulled into both spots but stayed amongst the devastation at Honeymoon Bay along with all the flies, mosquitoes and sand flies. No power or water so no shower after a long day's tough drive. A couple of sets of NSW fishermen and their wives were there also. Sidenote: At Ellenbrae Station, the camp host advised us that McGowan Island campsite was destroyed by two rival families wielding spears and axes, prior to the cyclone. Although the community is alcohol free, drugs are a problem. By claiming a category 5 cyclone (actually category 2), it is believed the Federal Government will provide aid to possibly rebuild both the camps. Monday May 2nd [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Checked out the fishermen netting bait on the beach and then high-tailed it out of there by 7 a.m. after some fruit juice and cereal. Kalumburu Mission and township was not devastated by the cyclone. The Mission runs the store and since the local 'minimart' went bankrupt their revenues have doubled to $4,000/day. Along with many of their inhabitants, devoured a breakfast 'toastie' (egg and ham in side to slices of bread heated in a taffle iron) together with a can of 'Solo' (carbonated lemon squash). The trip back was quite a long, tiresome one. Caught up with Andrew and Natasha heading north and warned them it was quite rough and not much to see when you arrive. Saw one other vehicle, 3 brolgas strolling across the road and had two mere misses with cattle on the roadside. At the Gibb River Road junction met a retired NZ couple who were spending 6 months driving around Australia, but had driven all over Africa, Asia and South America. They decided not to see the Mitchell Falls because they had seen so many other great falls around the world such as Niagara, Livingstone etc. Headed onto Riggers Camp at Ellenbrae Station for a well deserved and needed shower. Ran into Derrick and Ronda whom we had dinner with at Fitzroy Crossing. It was a bad attitude day for both Christine and I, which is unusual, particularly for Christine who is so even keeled. We were both tired of the dust and dirt inside everything in the Troopy, in the fridge etc. and generally being dirty ourselves along with being tired of driving as the roads are very demanding on your concentration. Unfortunately, the donkey (wood fired water heater) was not alight and so no hot water which disappointed Christine, although the cold was equally refreshing. This culminated with running out of fresh food and no cool drinks running out of fresh food and no cool drinks (beer and wine) made us a little cranky, but not with each other. Had a fry up dinner with veggie burgers, tofu bacon and eggs on stale bread with margarine; doesn't sound great but quite a meal when you're tired and hungry. Tuesday May 3rd [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] The dawn was afresh new day with loads of birdlife to awaken to. Got another early start and traveled east on the Gibb River Road; again the graders and road crews have done a great job improving the road so we could speed along at 50 kilometers/hour, slowing down for a few oncoming 4WDs and the numerous floodways and creek crossings. Made the 223 kilometers in 4+ hours and with 35 liters to spare in the dual fuel tanks. The Pentecost Ranges are scenic but the Durack Ranges are more impressive. The Pentecost River is very wide, but fortunately the water is only running at 50 centimeters (20 inches) so no problem in 4WD high second gear. The previous evening we had decided to cross the Diversion Dam wall and go into Kununurra to cleanup and then head back out. The mail takes 8-10 working days so had not arrived. Washed the Troopy's exterior of all the dirt for $3. Filled up with 145 liters of diesel which cost $199 dollars less the $6 Coles discount. Had a couple of pies for lunch and went to the Hidden Valley van park, recommended by the mangers who we met at Ellenbrae along with their friends Ronda and Derrick. Spent 2˝ hours cleaning the Troopy's interior, washing clothes and generally cleaning up to feel fresher. Able to purchase 4 liter wine casks and 24 can slabs were on special for $34 so had some drinks after the big clean up. Wednesday - Friday May 4th - 6th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] The fridge stopped working early in the morning to now harm done, but called David, Customer Service at Trakka who did out our Troopy modification. There appears to be nothing wrong with the secondary battery, but is needs a good, strong recharge using 240V power every 2 weeks for 24 hours if not running or 36 hours if running at a 50% setting. This is in addition to any solar panel or driving that we are adding additional trickle charge. Our battery is 75 AHr not 100 AHr due to the engine compartment space restriction of the hydraulic winch. 
We had been out 9 days without using power so this was a good time to stop for a couple of days to recharge the battery. Did a small Coles grocery shop and rested in the well designed and built, impeccable 5-star Ivanhoe Big 4 caravan park. Leo and Janet, an older couple from Ballina in the van spot next to us invited us for a cuppa as soon as we arrived; they were perhaps a bit over friendly for us. The swimming pool was excellent, particularly the wonderful 'waving lizard' around the pool edges.
At the pool met Anthony (Welsh) and Emma (British) who were on their one year honeymoon. Andrew and Natasha also arrived and we had quite a few drinks well into the night in the company of both couples. It was a real treat for us. Relaxed, swam, chatted to people and read books; Chris is in the depths of the intriguing Dan Brown novel 'The Da Vinci Code'. Anthony had recent got his dive certificate to 18 meters depth during a 5 hours training for about $400. The prerequisite is 200 meters of swimming (no particular style or time limit) and 10 minutes to tread water.
We are considering this if we live on the reef. Picked up our mail - nothing too exciting! On Friday night we bought steaks (rare for Chris), crocodile (to taste) and fish for Christine and enjoyed these with salads and wines with the two above mentioned couples who will still be there after we complete our 3-4 day camping trip around this area of the Kimberley's. Another nice night.
Saturday May 7th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Completed a small grocery shop at Coles Headed back out into the Kimberley's. Viewed the Zebra rock sculpture and their grounds on the river including feeding the catfish and archer fish and talking to the various birds. Lunched on the Ord River below the Diversion Dam (Christine was uncharacteristically starving). Went onto towards the major tourist spot of El Questro via the 4WD track and Tier Gorge. Emma Gorge is closed till July due to the recent cyclone that appeared to be quite selective in what it destroyed. Camped at Kingfisher camp right on the Pentecost River. Cost was $30 and fortunately we did not need to purchase a $30 station permit as Andrew had given us his sticker which they never check. Otherwise it could have been a very expensive night. Sunday May 8th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] 
Very peaceful night with plentiful birdlife to awake. After breakfast drove up to Branco' Lookout for a spectacular view over the 1,000,000 acre ranch and Chamberlain River. The surrounding Durack and Cockburn Ranges remind us of both the hogback of Colorado, home of our last ranch and Arizona. Showered at El Questro Station township and walked up through the cool palms to the Zebedee Springs. Off to Wyndham and port Wyndham, not much of a spot but the view from Fiver Rivers out look over the Forest, Durack, Ord, Pentecost and King Rivers flowing out via the East and West Arm's of the Cambridge Gulf into the Timor Sea.
Onto the dirt again into Parry Lagoons Nature reserve and enjoyed bird watching on Marlgu Billabong. While crossing the Ivanhoe River bumped into Natasha/Andrew and Anthony/Emma who had had an unsuccessful fishing day. The Ivanhoe crossing is long and the river is running quite fast but was safe as only up to the door running boards. Unbelievably, at the other side also ran into Richard and Yvonne from Switzerland. Stopped and chatted to all. Passed through the Ord River Irrigation scheme and subsequent farms, Kununurra and south to Lake Argyle.
Monday - Wednesday May 9th - 11th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Drove to the Ord River Dam lookout, impressive but only 2% of the dam water are visible; dam holds 12 times for water than Sydney harbor. After motoring over the dam wall, headed back to the highway and into Northern Territory to Keep River NP to view the rock art. Had a good chat to the chaps manning enjoying the pool, shade and green grass as high/low temperatures are still 38/20 degree C. This will also be the last oasis for a while. Checked out the internet, washed clothes and did bit of a clean-up and shopped for groceries and diesel. Thursday May 12th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Headed south through Turkey Creek into the Purnululu or Bungle Bungle NP. The road is twisty and torturous but has been graded in places so only took 1˝ hours compared to up to 2-3 hours. The dome formations in the south end of the Park are 350 million year old (Devonian Era) and look like 'beehives' in bands of black cynobacteria, orange silica protecting the fragile white sandstone underneath. The Cathedral Gorge walk and short Domes walk was excellent. The pool, beach sand and rock formation at the end of the Cathedral Gorge are very spectacular. Kurrajong campsite along the creek side was busy but the sunset on the Bungle Bungle Ranges was brilliant and the birdlife in the morning plentiful. Friday May 13th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] 
Arose very early (5.30 a.m.) and took a 30 minute on Slingair Helicopter ride for $225/person at 2,000' over Deep Gorge, Piccaninny Gorge (1,000' deep or tall as a 65 storey building), Horseshoe Valley (aboriginal grave site), Piccaninny Circular structure formed by a meteorite, The Domes and the Coalition (where weathering has started). Steve the pilot was very friendly. Early morning is great as there is little wind. We had saved our money for this expensive tour and it was well worth it. Christine was fine in the helicopter but Chris was a little shaken up for a couple of hours afterwards.
Did a good hike into Echidna Chasm made of conglomerate, similar to The Olgas in the NT. Some species of Livistona palms are unique to this area and look great against the red chasm. The chasm lights up at midday for great photographs. This northern end of the Park is also excellent. Drove down to Halls Creek, filled up with diesel (cheaper then Kununurra) and stopped in the security of the van park. This was an excellent decision as, unfortunately on Friday night, the Kimberley Motel has an outdoor rock and roll concert and many aboriginals attend, so the night was very noisy, with them yelling at each other over the dogs barking and noise of the band.
I don't think we will forget one couple arguing over some lost money and calling each other 'cunt face' and 'penis face'. Anyway we survived the night. Although we are a little ahead of ourselves with respect to our around Australia trip, we feel that the extra time looking around Queensland and northern NSW will be helpful in selecting a place to eventually settle.
Saturday - Sunday May 14th - 15th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Headed south east down the 1,050 kilometer Tanami Track through the very remote Tanami Desert. First stop was the impressive Wolfe Crater Meteorite Crater Reserve, the second largest crater in the world. Formed 300,000 years ago the 150 meter high crater is now only 20 meters in height. The vegetation has been restored since cattle were removed in 1987 and it is very salt resistant due to evaporation. The time change from NT into WA is 1˝ hours behind and this is great because the sunrise/sunset times have moved from 5.30 a.m/ 5.30 p.m. to 7.00 a.m./7.00 p.m. which are much more respectable. In addition, we were able to do the drive in 2 days because the road conditions were quite good considering, and graders were out both in WA and NT. One could comfortably travel at 70 kilometers/hour and up to 80 - 90 kilometers/hour in some spots. On the border we met a Czech push bike rider that was quite experienced in touring in outback desert regions. He advised us that the bushfire up ahead was accidentally lit from toilet paper by a National Geographic team who are checking out the old explorer route. The most interesting part of the trip was meeting 3 sets of aborigines who need help with their vehicles:
Monday - Wednesday May 16th - 18th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] It is much colder than we have experienced in four months and Chris had to wear a T-shirt compared to a singlet. Overnight temperatures are 8 degree C so we needed to wear jumpers and ugg boots and use the duvet on the bed at night. Decided to stay in Alice Springs for three days. First day we did a Troopy interior clean-up and clothes wash as we were very dusty. Lunched at the familiar Mediterranean café in the Todd River Mall and Chris got his first seniors discount at the book exchange. This was a serious blow and Christine thought it was hysterical. The new manager of Bob Jane tire store (were we purchased our tire last October) was from Sydney, a very friendly chap and gave us a free tire rotation and balance. Because of information obtained at the van park, did not us Toyota but a local company, Outback Automotive for the 85,000 Troopy service. Tuesday was disrupted with Bob Chen calling from RAE Systems asking whether we were interested in managing Europe and meeting him in Shanghai Chine in mid June. We decided to look at this opportunity and booked airfares/accommodation and arranged to get visas through Qantas Travel. Checked out our internet and sent out a broadcast covering our last 4 months in WA. Christine had her haircut and we went to the Casino for happy hour and a couple of drinks and revisited the Indian restaurant for a good spicy meal. On Wednesday we finalized our China trip, rechecked the internet, got some Medicare money from Christine's Perth doctor visits, both had our 6 monthly teeth cleaning and revisited Lane restaurant in the Todd Mall for lunch. Christine lost her Russian wedding ring at the van park which was a bit of a blow. Alice Springs is a good place to restock, get things done and take a break from the desert. Thursday May 19th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Purchased diesel and groceries and headed north east along the Plenty Highway towards outback Queensland (south western Qld). We have never seen so many wedge tail eagles enjoying carrion and some were the biggest we have seen to date. Hit the dirt roads past Gemstone (where we had stopped in August last year). Continued on to Harts Range Police station (probably the most isolated in Australia), aboriginal communities including Mt. Eaglebeak and the tallest termite mound we have even seen, must have been 5 meters. The single queen termite live to be over 80 years, but the workers much less. Stopped just short of the Queensland border at Tobermorey Station, an oasis with green grass, but the electricity diesel generator stayed on all night. Had a couple of beers with two Telstra linesmen who traveled the outback. Enjoyed a dinner of chicken sausages and hot vegetables as its cold in the evenings. Friday May 20th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] At the Queensland border the time changes on by ˝ hour, the road becomes the Donohue 'Highway' and deteriorates significantly. It's the first time we have experienced the huge long bull dust holes. This powder is so fine it gets into everything. It runs like mercury off the vehicle's surface and billows in huge dust cloud behind the moving vehicle. A highlight was spotting a flock of 60+ brolgas near Glenormiston Station. What a fantastic sight; such large, majestic birds with their red caps. Acacia Georgina foliage, a Gidgee species found along the Georgina River killed thousands of cattle in the pioneer years due to its fluoroacetic acid content. Drove into Boulia and enjoyed the Min Min Encounter at the Tourist Information center. Camped on the Burke River in a small, pleasant park. Saturday May 21st [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Arose early to watch the sun come up on the river and birds. Unsuccessfully did not repair our broken 12V light and did as botchy job on the chair; my first unfixable problems on the road so far. Headed north to Mt. Isa on single lane bitumen, quite an uneventful trip. Did a small grocery shop and filled up with diesel. Relaxed at the van park on the grass with beautiful bougainvilleas trees and enjoyed the sunshine and a few drinks. Had a great red curry chicken for dinner. Saw the first ever Trakka conversion on a VW next to us. Sunday May 22nd [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Checked out the hilltop view of Mt Isa and the smelters and the Outback at Mt Isa Australian Fossil Mammal Site displaying fossils and the scientific working laboratory of the World Heritage Riversleigh site in NW Qld we visited last August. Over 100 vertebrate species have been discovered including huge flightless birds (3meter, 300 kilogram), freshwater crocodiles, marsupial lions, carnivorous kangaroos, thylacine (ancestor to the extinct Tasmanian tiger). This backward picture of Australian original fauna, embedded either in limestone or the bat droppings in caves, gives us a serious insight into today's unique fauna. So far we have visited 9 of the 14 World Heritage site around Australia. This includes both fossil sites, central eastern rainforests, Shark Bay, Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP, Kakadu NP, Fraser Island, wet tropics of Qld, Great Barrier Reef and Blue Mountains. Others yet to do include wilderness Tasmania, Willandra Lakes NSW, Heard, McDonald, Macquarie and Lord Howe Islands. Only drove 120 kilometers to Cloncurry to relax in the van park and stay the night. Monday May 23rd [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] An older, single lady camper next to us was quite interesting and into the major bird spots in Australia; she pointed out the noisy apostle bird around us. Drove over 520 kilometers via McKinlay (features a disappointing, new replica of the Walkabout Creek pub featured in the Crocodile Dundee movie) and Winton (were A.B. (Banjo) Paterson wrote this famous poem and song "Waltzing Matilda" and onto Longreach. Spent a couple of hours in Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame, a top quality overview of Australian history and will finish it off on Tuesday. Stayed in a very busy van park and defrosted the fridge. Chris enjoyed the country song writer and singer with good Aussie song and jokes around the campfire. Tuesday May 24th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Enjoyed chatting to Andrew and Natasha from Narracorte NP, SA, both working in the NP and hospitality system and enjoy their passion, but getting poor wages ($30K and 25K respectively). Revisited the Stockman's Hall of Fame and checked out the QANTAS Outback Founders Heritage Museum. Shopped at the local IGA market for vegetables, picked up fish/chicken and bread at the local butcher and baker and discounted diesel through the Mobile bulk outlet with the van park receipt (3+2=5cent/liter cheaper than the petrol stations). The 320 kilometers via Muttaburra to Hughenden were mainly dirt roads through cattle stations and the highlight was a herd of 10 or so feral camels. Joined three young Swiss guys and had a few beers. Wednesday May 25th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Checked out the Mattaburrathorus dinosaur at the Information Center and continued north over 450 kilometers mainly on the dirt up the Kennedy Development Road via the Porcupine Gorge NP to The Lynd and Oasis Roadhouse and then into familiar territory along the Savannah Way near the Undara Lava Tubes. The basalt ranges and outcrops and rich cattle country are a welcome change to the plains. Say 4 adult and 10 or so little feral, black pigs. Stopped at Innot Hot Springs to enjoy a soak in the hot spring water, partake in a pub meal with a few drinks and watch Queensland win an exciting ruby league game by a try in overtime in the State of Origin. Thursday - Monday May 26th - 30th [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] 
Headed north of Cairns via the Atherton Tableland to Mossman, Cooya, Newell and Wonga Beaches to start our look for some real estate. Stayed at the relaxed Pinnacle van park as a base on Wonga Beach. Met Max from Switzerland who is very like mined to us and looking for land on the west coast between Perth and Canarvon. Did a huge clean up of the Troopy both inside and out and big clothes wash of both our daily and those stored in the cupboard. The property hunting was interesting and found few real estate agents worth their salt, which we suspect will be typical all over the hunt. Loraine's property we talked about in Broome is quite interesting and scores about 80% of what we want, but it's the first place we have looked at.
Did quite a bit of investigation wrt comparative properties and pricing, both of land/house and land. Checked out Daintree Village and enjoyed another lunch at The Inlet seafood restaurant in Pt. Douglas. Wonga beach is a real South Pacific beach with white sand and arching palms along the entire coast. Had some wine and nibbles with Max from Switzerland on three evenings as his 'lifetime partner' returns from Switzerland after a month away. Also had Lorraine and Peter over on the last evening - originally from Melbourne, they have lived in Nossa for 20 years and even after two 'life style' properties are moving fro the area as it is too commercialized.
Tuesday May 31st [more pictures 1] [more pictures 2] Traveled down to Cairns QANTAS travel office to pick up tickets and visas for China. Also did a grocery shop at Woolworth's including the elusive turkey chops and filled up with diesel at the lowest price for ages at $1.00/litre after discount. Traveled south to Innisfall and checked out some real estate agents who did not have much to offer in our criteria. The weather has taken a turn for the worse and it's now raining constantly. Stayed just south at Etty Beach, a magical, small, quaint spot on the beach, introduced to us last year by Christine's cousins Pam and Jake. Got in a walk on the beach though. Wet evening, Chris cooked and we ate under the awning which we have not used in ages. |