| October 2004 |
Friday October 1st - 3rd [more pictures] On Friday CH added 4 new BF Goodrich A/T all-terrain tires ($1064) to the Troopy as the Yokahama tires, purchased with the vehicle, needed replacement at 53,000 kilometers. Caught up with e-mails. CH had oral hygiene appointment and CC another sports therapeutic massage. CC also picked up her glasses that were repaired in Adelaide, SA free-of-charge. We also caught up with Barbara and Kelly for Friday dinner at the Todd River Tavern and a cup of tea the following afternoon at their bus/large awning at a permanent resident's park 16 kilometers south of the Alice (cost $50/week). Both are into the Harley scene, working at the hospital and saving for a few acres. Saturday we did a clean-up of the Troopy and clothes washing. Sunday was a rest day, with nice "picky" lunch with white wine at the Red Ochre restaurant on the Todd Mall, viewed the whole of Alice from Anzac Hill and shopped for the next part of the trip. Monday October 4th [more pictures] Another morning in the Alice with fringe and beard trims, book exchange, little shopping and internet. Enjoyed the Royal Flying Doctor base tour; boy what a great institution this is, relying on donations for all their planes and operation! Headed south to Santa Teresa Aboriginal community to meet up with Jane Crossley, teacher at the school for 5 years. Although she is planning to leave in the next 12 months, she has dedicated her time and energies to Teresa, an aboriginal teacher, as this is her way of making a measurable contribution and difference. Stayed at her besser brick/low ceiling lodgings, took a hike up the hill with her camp dog Zack and enjoyed a vegetarian meal. CC reviewed her books on Buddhism/spiritualism and CH chatted about the aboriginal situation. Jane had recommended a book which CH read titled "Crossed Purposes" about the Pintupi (last contact tribe coming out of the desert) which was very informative. Tuesday October 5th [more pictures] Headed south along the eastern part of the Simpson Desert Loop; very isolated and only saw one other vehicle. Checked out Mac Clark Conservation Preserve with a stand of Waddy Acacia. This incredibly hard wood tree (used by Aboriginals as a club) grow to 17 meters, age to 500 years and live on 35 mm of rain as they tap into the groundwater. Stopped by the Old Aldado Station but Molly Clarke was absent. Decided to head via a narrow 4WD track, over the NT/SA border to Mt Dare homestead (HS) in the Witjra NP. The amazing changes in color from the tablelands, red/black rock gibber planes (reminded us of the harsh barren plains of windswept Wyoming), brilliant red sand dunes against the blue sky and yellow sand on the Finke River. The purple, white and yellow wild flowers were prevalent on these red dunes. Stopped for a well earnt beer at Mt Dare HS and coincidentally ran into 2 parties we met in the Stuart caravan park in the Alice. Although we had paid for a campsite, the operators were prepared to refund our money as the area was covered in ants. Decide to shot for Dalhousie Springs (mound springs of the Great Artesian Basin). However, 13 - 30 and up to 75 mm in some parts of rain had fallen a week prior and the roads were covered in water and mud. We were please that the 2 parties were heading in the same direction and listened to them on the UHF radio. Got in at sunset, a lot later than normal after a very long and tough drive. We were very thankful of our new tires in the mud and learned to choose the 4WD gear early and maintain momentum through the mud and water. A tag-a-long group made up of "the Todd River Boys" including Ian and Colin were all from the Sydney surrounds. We joined them around the campfire and they invited us to join them on the Birdsville track which we declined. Wednesday October 6th [more pictures] Instead we joined David (Sparks) and his 2 boys from Port Broughton who were heading down the Oodnadatta Track via Dalhousie HS ruins via Pedirka. This was a good decision as again the roads were in bad condition. Many long stretches of water on the road and deep creeks to cross. At the Pink Roadhouse, we were advised the road was closed due to Peake Creek running at 0.9 meter high. This did not bother us as we had already planed to go to Cooper Pedy on the Stuart Highway. This famous opal mining town is set on a harsh moon rock landscape (pictured in many Australian films such as Pricilla Queen of the Desert and Mad Max). The barren caravan park had more prohibiting signs imaginable but thankfully some shade from the 40 degree C heat. Met up with Lew, German living in Majorca who gave us some copper and gypsum rock samples. Thursday October 7th [more pictures] Viewed the town and houses built into the hills around Coober Pedy. Got a real feel for the past and present opal mining and living conditions by checking out the Old Timers Mine used from 1916 to 1968. This underground self guided tour was worth the $10/head. Stocked up on a few supplies and headed back onto the Oodnadatta Track, taking in a beer at the famous outback pub at William Creek (SA's smallest town, population 10). 
Interesting to see the Burke Ambulance Troopy after it had been stuck in the mud on the 'closed road' to Lake Eyre. Followed the abandoned Ghan Railroad to a great campsite at Coward Springs whose spa again comes from the Great Artesian Basin (which covers 1/5th of the Australian Outback). Greg and Prue (from Seal Bay Road, KI) spend 6 months/year restoring this site.
His ingenious use of the old railway sleeper (ties in American terms) and telegraph insulators in the toilet and showers blocks, hollow logs on the shower block and water tank to keep the galahs at bay and gas cylinder modified to work as a donkey (wood burning water heater) was amazing. All the power is solar, artesian water providing pressure and water to the date palms, tamarinds and young endemic trees so his only outlay is toilet paper and work he enjoys doing.
The campsite is raked clean and set amongst the athol pines from the pub that one existed on the site (the bar is now at William Creek). South Australian crows were happy camp companions and the birdlife around the wetlands plentiful. The restored engine driver cottage is very informative about the history, restoration and flora.
Friday October 8th [more pictures] Continued down the track past the salt pan of South Lake Eyre to Marree with informative tourist board about the Kidman cattle empire and differing landscapes of the area. Viewed the Afghan Mosque replica. Checked out the newish mining town of Leigh Creek and the amazing open-cut coal mine viewing area. Stopped early at a great spot at Copley, washed the exterior of the Troopy, did a small clean up inside and clothes washing. Telephoned Dale for his 60th birthday a week late to catch up on all the gossip from his party the week before which the Sydney crowd attended. He liked his new digital camera. Joined 3 couples around the campfire for a great chat. Saturday October 9th [more pictures] Copley bakery; chicken and white wine pie and a huge bush pasty - $4 each but the best ever; set up a perfect touring day. Headed east to the Gammon Ranges NP, very impressive 1,600 million year old with harsh landscapes with creek beds dotted with gums or native pine trees. The ground is covered in green with purple or yellow wildflowers after the recent rains and spring sunshine. 
Spotted brumbies, sizable 5' grey kangaroo, two large lizard species as well as many galahs and cockatoos. Camped at Mainwater Well close to the disused Idnina HS in Mainwater Pound - beaut site, no-one else there! While it is compulsory to vote in Australia, didn't as we have not reregistered yet. Feel we do not understand the Australian politics and voting system yet.
It is not first past the post, but an English preferential system. Liberal (conservative right wing) under the Prime Ministership of John Howard won as expected; reelected for record a forth, four-year term with an increased majority, over Mark Lathan and the Labor Party (left wing).
The senate or upper house result may also be controlled by the Liberals and this seems to suggest a lack of 'checks and balances' as the senate has blocked hundreds bills in the last 12 years. The Australian economy has been real good for the last decade and, like most, typically votes "with our check books".
We are concerned about a lack of forward thinking vision, investments in infrastructure such as water, energy, (and to a lesser extent health and education) and foreign policy in Asia and the Middle East (Iraq war).
Sunday October 10th [more pictures] 4WD to Gills Lookout, a magnificent view of the Illawortina Pound (huge natural geological bowl) in the Gammon Ranges with colors ranging from red to yellow and patches of white. Onto Grindells Hut and Balcanoona HS, the NP headquarters since 1985. Great drive to the dry saltpan of Lake Frome, past the gas pipeline (presumably from the Moomba Fields to Port Augusta) and through the Dog Fence. The fence was actually 2 fences, the older one higher and buried into the sand the second a newer electric fence. The Dog Fence is the longest manmade structure in the world, keeping the dingoes and feral dogs to the north in cattle country away from the southern sheep pastures. Questioned on our return by an aboriginal couple in a Troopy (it's their favorite means of transport) about the plentiful kangaroos on the track, as this is their hunting ground after 3 p.m.. Camped at Arkaroola Village, a dusty, stony spot with no grass and poor shade. Monday October 11th [more pictures] Slowly 4WDed through Welcome Pound past Stubb's and Arkaroola water holes (the latter with a few white corellas) to Paralana Hot Springs where hot water, radon and helium escape. Met up again with Tony and Jackie (from the Palm Valley hike, Finke NP) for a great conversation and a couple of drinks. The highlight was an hour alone with the tour operator at 10 p.m. in the evening spent viewing through the Arkaroola 14-inch Schmidt Cassegrain telescope, checking out:
Tuesday - Wednesday October 12th - 13th [more pictures] An unusually hot and windy day this early in the season hurled us south to the Flinders Rangers NP. Stopped briefly at Blinman hamlet for a cool drink, lunched at Dingley Dell, and enjoyed the amazing view, especially of Wilpena Pound from Stokes Hill and Hucks Lookouts. The fields of blue wildflowers and multiple flocks of emus (up to 10 in number) were a highlight of the day. Wilpena Pound campground was 'just what the doctor ordered' with greenery all round, tall, plentiful shade trees and little wind as the hot winds and temperatures were over 40 degree C. A wallaby agreed with us lazing in the dirt next to us in the afternoon. CC raved about the 'purple wildflowers which turned out to be Patterson's Curse (Qld) or Salvation Jane (SA) weed. The early morning Hills Homestead hike along the Wilpena Pound Creek was delightful with pink, red, purple, yellow and white wildflowers and abundance of stocky River Red Gums and native pines. View of Wilpena Pound was outstanding as the ranges are green after the rain. Relaxed for the rest of the day as CC was in pain and needed a chiropractic adjustment. Tony and Jackie showed up and along with John and Collette from Brisbane and Iain (Scotsman on Volunteer Aid Abroad) and Grace from Brazil (both living on an island just off the coast of the city of Salvador) enjoyed happy hour at the Wilpena Pound Chalet followed by the campsite. The Flinders Ranges are one of the oldest in the world, now just hills were once the height of the Himalayas. In December 2004, it was announced that a new invertebrate fossil over 500 million years old was discovered in the Flinders some years ago and this is now added a new earlier era in evolution. Thursday - Friday October 14th - 15th [more pictures] Continued to tour the beautiful Flinders Ranges NP, past a field of dozens of emus, brown kangaroos then through 'a journey in time' along the creek beds and massive, 500 million year old, geologically amazing walls of both the Bunyaroo and Brachina Gorges carving through the Heysen Range. Then down the Moralana Scenic Drive past the flowering yellow wattles featuring the Elder Range and Arkaba Hills. 
Cappuccinos and scones with strawberry jam at Hawker, through the Ragless Range and farming country NW of Quorn featuring sheep and, for the first time, crops (probably wheat). Ended up at the Big 4 caravan park at Port Augusta for 2 nights. Port Augusta is at the northern tip of Spencer Gulf. The huge power station supplies 25% of SA's electricity. Friday went both went to prearranged appointments with a chiropractor which we both needed.
Troopy had a 55,000 kilometer service and severe use positive check out. Really cleaned up Troopy's interior, washed most of our clothes including all our warm ones (the temperatures are much colder aggravated by the wind), grocery shopped at the supermarket chain of Woolworth, getting our diesel at Caltex for the lowest price since Cairns, Qld of $1.10/liter (less 4 cents/liter by spending more than $30 at the supermarket) and picked up our mail (forwarded by Christine's parents to the Post Office).
Note the Coles supermarket and Shell gas/petrol stations have the same arrangement discount arrangement for fuel. Seafood was quite cheap with opened oysters at $7.50/dozen, so we feasted on these and prawns one evening in the Troopy as the wind and temperatures dropped to 10 degree C. CC also made an appointment with the gastroenterologist specialist, recommended by her Auntie Elva in Port Adelaide.
CH also arranged visits to various aunties and cousins in Clare, Riverton and Renmark, our destinations over the next couple of weeks.
Saturday October 16th [more pictures] After a long chat from a Queensland couple from the Atherton Tableland (as a Department of Primary Industry representative he had good stories to relate), properly washed the Troopy's exterior; cleanest its been in 2½ months. Headed south via Port Germaine, walked the longest, 1.7 kilometer, jetty in the southern hemisphere where they were catching King George whiting and blue swimmer crabs. Drove though Port Pirie (in the shadows of the worlds largest silver, lead and zinc smelter) and onto the delightful retirement and holiday coastal town of Port Broughton. This fishing village is frequented by vacationers from Broken Hill NSW, Adelaide and the surrounds. It's 170 kilometers from Adelaide and resides on a bay which opens onto the Spence Gulf. A 600 square meter block of land on the beachfront was $225K and one bedroom shack on 280 square meters $215K with rental of $200/week. A young couple had taken over the caravan park 2 years ago; the shower/toilet block was the best yet. Camped on the grass overlooking the bay and relaxed into reading books, a few drinks and enjoying a pasta dinner. Sunday October 17th [more pictures] Checked out the unique, leased, shanty hamlet of Fishermans Bay then headed inland over the beautiful rolling countryside in true Aussie colors of green and gold, covered in wheat, barley and canola (rape) crops, harvested hay, sheep and littered with old stone farmhouses and machinery shed nestled amongst established trees with tree lined drives. Passed through quaint country towns like Crystal Brook, Spalding and Burra with its historic, abandoned copper mines, smelter chimney ruins and Cornish cottages. Drove south to Clare to camp on green grass and yellow daises under a great tall stand of gum trees. Spent 2 nights eating inside the Troopy as it was cold. This totals only 4 nights so far, the others due to rain in Yulara and Eungulla. Monday - Tuesday October 18th - 19th [more pictures] Spent some expensive time on the internet @ $2/15 minutes but enjoyed the Riesling Trail from Auburn to Clare Valley. Sampled wines at Annie Lane (formally Quelltaler) and lunched at Neagles Rock and Skillogalee vineyards and restaurants. Great to sample the wines and enjoy well prepared and presented foods in these colorful new and old buildings surrounded by gardens full of spring flowers. Wonderful spring weather, bright, warm days and cool nights. Contracted a bought of hayfever which fortunately only lasted a few hours. Visited twice with Ivan and Jan Duggin (both of Irish decent). Ivan, 71 years old is my oldest cousin; his mother Avis, the eldest daughter of may grandparents on my mother's side of the family from Renmark. Ivan educated in Adelaide as a pharmacist, went initially to Cowell for 12 years and then 28 years in Clare. He contracted a spinal melanoma 10 years ago and, although in remission, this may have triggered Parkinson's disease (which his mother suffered). Jan controlled all the discussions and spent quite a bit of time criticizing the disfuntionality of the Matulichs, my grandmother's family. They emigrated from Dalmatian in Yugoslavia (coastal region of southern Croatia). Discovered that my grandmother had an illegitimate son before she married grandfather Cramp. Clearly neither Ivan nor Jan related well to Auntie Avis. They had 4 children, educated at Scots; visited Katherine and her husband on the farm at Blyth - they have adopted Korean children. Ivan and Jan asked us nothing about our overseas experience. This was not such a great start to visiting CH's relations, but clearly Jan, whilst not a bad person, has a problem. Wednesday October 20th [more pictures] Drove to Riverton to catch up with my Auntie Fay, cousin Joan and her husband David. Fay is my Dad's sister. Toured the cemetery to view, for the first time, my grandmothers and great grandparent's graves. Also visited Fay's property; a 1500 acre wheat/sheep property just outside of town which she now leases to the Fuess's. Acreage is valued at $2,000/acre, twice that of Bombala. We had a great day, lunched on great ham sandwiches and home-made cake at her small unit in town and dined at the rowdy, small, country pub, where Fay insisted on paying for dinner (Christine had whiting fish). Great to see them again, and interestingly enough, they thought we had not changed. They were concerned we might be bored with their country ways and might be snobbish. Turned out to be a delightful time. Thursdag October 21st [more pictures] The caravan park had wonderful brand new amenities and we left the $12 camping fee under the caretaker's door. Thunder-stormed all day, so with coffee headed off to Loxton, CH's home town on the Murray River. Great country Cornish pastie (as I remembered them) and chicken pie at Eudunda, through the remnants of Bower where my grandparent's had a general store, over the Murray River by vehicle punt at Morgan and through Waikerie and Kingston to Loxton. Ate and dropped the rest of our fruit in the quarantine bin prior to the Riverland area as part of the fruit fly prevention program. Passed many vineyards and orchards. Once the area was know for 650+ returned war settlements, of which Betty (Dad's father's brother's daughter)/Alan Wishart at Pyap and Uncle Milton (Mum's brother) at Loxton North started. Much bigger corporations own many of the new properties. Loxton seems to be a vibrant town of 7,100 people (5,000 in my day), known for its Christmas lights and scenic gardens. Had lunch at the renovated, community hotel. The new owners of my parent's family home at 4 Murray Terrace were great and allowed us in to see over all the great advancements made by previous owners. Great changes at the back with an open kitchen and doubled interior add-on, to make a great open living area, new bathrooms, toilet and laundry in this now 5 bedroom home. Nice gardens, private with trees and fences and in-ground pool. The home and land is so much smaller than I remember it. The old silky oak tree I climbed as a boy still remains in the back corner of the property. The new owners paid $400,000 for the property last year; I think we sold in 1983 for $45,000. The property has a view of the River Murray and prime position in the town. Visited the local Loxton News paper and photocopied a picture of Hameister Brothers garage in 1928, from the 50th Jubilee edition of the paper (1995). Viewed the garage property, now full of shops in the vibrant main shopping street, my grandparents' home, Hameister Avenue, Uniting church, primary and secondary schools I attended. Bruno Fausinella, who knew my Dad and is the science teacher, took me over the High School which now boasts 550 pupils (300ish in my day) with a new $3.6M building improvement opened by the Minister for education the previous day. They plan to have a 50th reunion in 2009. After quite an exhausting day camped on the quiet Murray River banks full of magpies, minors, ducks, galahs, cockatoos, pelicans etc. Telephoned Peter Proud; he was in my final year at High School and went to Adelaide University, graduating in economics. Dropped out of the system 10 years ago to return to his cousin's grape growing property in Loxton. Friday October 22nd [more pictures] Gary Size visited us at our campsite in the morning. We spoke to his wife at the Loxton News and I'd independently discovered he'd organized a Primary school reunion for a class of Grade 1, 1961 students (2 years after me). Nice guy, lives on Hameister Terrace and we swapped contact details. Visited the extensive Loxton Historical Village on the bank of the river, and found old photos of Hameister Brothers garage. It appears that my grandfather, Albert Hameister was the first president of the Loxton Bowling Club from 1929 - 1938 and was the first person awarded life membership. There is a great photograph of him on the wall at the club. Viewed the majestic old, Lutheran Church where I sang in the oratorical society. Lunched at Lock 4, upstream from Loxton. The series of locks control the river levels and allow the houseboats passage. A bridge now crosses the river at Berri, where once a vehicle punt existed. Camped on the Katarapko Creek in the Murray River NP, near where my Dad and I camped when I was a boy; Katarapko Island has one sand dune, an Aboriginal graveyard and some trees scared where they removed the bark to make canoes. Enjoyed a great camp fire on the creek under huge river gums. Large, healthy specimens of pelicans and herds of kangaroos up to 8 in number. Biggest spider I've ever seen spent the night inside the Troopy (body the size of whole thumb) which we removed next day. Temperatures are a little lower and more comfortable with high/lows of 25/10 C. Saturday - Sunday October 23rd - 24th [more pictures] Off to Renmark Caravan Park on the river to do a quick Troopy interior clean-up and clothes washing. Big families of ducks and some water hens. Visited for two days with Auntie Till, my mother's sister who is 95 years old and living with her daughter, my cousin Leona. Another wonderful day chatting about the family and our experiences. Auntie Till's mind is very sharp and active, Leona is quite demonstrative and they both love a laugh. Visited the cemetery to view the family graves on my mother's side; great grandparents, grandparents, Auntie Avis and my friend, Gerhard Ertel. Gerhard work on my combined Auntie Avis and Nana Cramps horticultural property for years and we spent a lot of time together while I grew up. Don Sonnerman (where Gerhard lived for 20 years and worked at their soft drink factory) had a headstone erected with assistance from a German friend and Gerhard's brother in Berlin using a small legacy left behind. I felt very gratified, as promised myself to make sure he was remembered. Lunched at a world class facility; Banrock Station Winery at Kingston-on-Murray, incredible value (lunch for 4 + 2 bottles of wine, just over $100 and included a reserve shiraz @ $12 + $3 corkage), environmentally designed building and restored the wetlands environment. We are now at the 6 month mark into the trip around Australia and feel that we could be rushing it a bit; there is so much to see and we are only touching the surface. However, we are really enjoying the trip and see ourselves continuing for another 12+ months. Monday October 25th [more pictures] Quick grocery shop in Renmark, then off to Mildura via the Old Wentworth Road, through the Chowilla Game Reserve and Bookmark Biosphere Region. Started in SA, viewed the meeting of 2 large rivers systems, the Darling and Murray Rivers at Wentworth in NSW, shopped in wine/diesel shopped + bed sheet repair in Mildura, Vic and camped on the Murray River at Buronga, NSW; 3 states in a day. 
Great spot on the river, but disturbed by kids in their cars on the other side of the river (in Mildura) and couple next door that had their wallet stolen.
We liked Mildura and surrounds as it is a big regional center of 45-50,000, along the banks of the Murray River and this might have an advantage over the smaller towns of the SA Riverland area. Also Mildura is serviced by air and rail where the Riverland is 3 hours to Adelaide. Finished the book "Where Dead Men Lie" written about and by Mike and Mal Leyland about the first crossing of Australia in 1966 from Shark Bay (west) to Byron Bay (east).
Great stuff. I asked Dale about the possibility of joining us for a 40th anniversary trip and he seemed somewhat positive.
Tuesday - Friday October 26th - 29th [more pictures] Through a burnt plastic smell in the vehicle, discovered a massive problem with the eclectics on the Troopy. Mildura Toyota service manager could not look at the problem till Friday and did not really have the qualified auto electricians to do the job. He sent us to Murray Valley auto electricians who discover a short in the rear door opening to the rear windshield wipers. This was too far from the battery source to create a current to blow the fuse so the parts of the whole wiring loom and fuse box melted down. We could have lost the whole vehicle. Toyota does not stock the part so a secondhand one had to be found. The whole vehicle's front and rear wiring loom was replaced from battery to the rear by removing the cupboards and complete dashboard. Huge job, expensive ($3,500) and will try to claim this on our comprehensive insurance. Stayed at a motel around the corner and close to the shopping center. The owners were quite helpful. Had lunch one day at the new Riverland Brewery - larger, growing, regional, country centers have come a long way. We watched some TV, cooked our meals on the BBQ and CH had a hair cut. CH also had a back muscular spasm and so went to the chiropractor for more consistent manual manipulation. Mildura was in the midst of an annual jazz festival with music, food and wine. We were not in the spirit of this. Saturday October 30th [more pictures] Due to our hold-up we delayed our plans to visit Mungo NP. Headed south to Echuca via riverland towns of Robinvale and Swan Hill, but due to the Melbourne Cup day holiday on Tuesday, all accommodation was taken, so headed to Picnic Point, Mathoura 48 kilometers north into NSW and enjoyed a great evening right on the Murray River bank (closer than 1 meter). The river is narrow and fast flowing, but beautiful. Unfortunately, the auto electrician did not get the plumbing right and so we had massive leaks in the rear passengers side cupboard. Fixed the cold water line after a very frustrating hour, but needed a new fitting, so ordered this from Trakka on the following Monday to fix the hot water and emptied the hot water tank. Sunday October 31st [more pictures] Headed south via green, lush countryside, pastoral lands, small vineyards, though hills and dales and towns such as Rochester, Kilmore and Heathcote to catch up with our friends Wayne and Jane in South Melbourne for the Melbourne Cup. Thought this might cheer us up a bit, which it did. Nearly got run off the road by a 2 bogie truck. Found our way into Melbourne via the M1 blue freeway to South Melbourne at the cost of $9.85, payable by visa card within 3 days. Wayne and Jane have moved to a great area overlooking Albert Park (and Bend 6 of the Australian Grand Prix, first race of the season on the first weekend in March). Their luxury, 225 square meter apartment on the first level of Laguna, 2/182 Albert Road is amazing with designer interior fittings and floor plan laid out to their specification. Lunched in the historic laneways of Melbourne, reminiscent of a previous trip to Brussels in Belgium. |