| September 2004 |
Wednesday September 1st [more pictures] Experienced a full moon On Wednesday, thoroughly enjoyed the 5 hour return boat trip out to the ruins of the failed British Victorian Settlement, 1838 - 1849. This was Britain's third attempt to start a settlement in northern Australia and 120 people died here from a combination of poor diet and tropical diseases. The land was totally cleared (no shade) and ironstone fireplaces for small English style houses were totally unsuitable for the 36/16 C maximum/minimum temperatures and high humidity of the region. After one year a cyclone destroyed the first year of enthusiastic building. Set up as a military establishment, high on the cliffs, it had poor water and soil for the gardens. No international trade or defense initiatives, few visitors and not self sufficient after 5 years also led to its abandonment. Jason runs the fishing charter, tours/tour guide, store and beach huts for the last 7 years and has over 10 years fishing experience in this region alone. 
He has a beaut, steel fishing boat ($95K) and Christine, not using her tablets or wrist bracelets, did not get sea sick on the trip out or back. He pointed out some interesting flora, a male bower bird courtship bower and the huge, orange leg bush hens nest. Morning tea on the isolated beach at Record Point was fabulous. Here the ships had a deep landing and were able to obtain fresh water. Met Don Fuches, Outback Magazine photographer whose pictures will be featured in Arnhem Land article in the Nov/Dec edition.
The highlight was Sunday morning when we met John Williams, Park Ranger and aboriginal leader (as his father is ill) of one of the four tribes covering the NP. We learnt more about aboriginals in 2 hours than all for my previous life. It is a deep, complex culture. Johnnie was very proud of his culture, articulate, well mannered and unabashed about explaining any aspects of their deep seated laws (paternal) and family life (maternal) including moiety, beliefs, indigenous punishment etc.
Family and extended family is the two most import things to aboriginal life (like the Arabs). He's in his mind thirties, very hard working, university educated, initiated (at the age of 12) into his tribe (and their beliefs) and is experienced in both the ways of his ancestors and the western world. He confirmed the existence of "song lines" for navigating throughout their land and others the existence of water, food and signs.
He described is concern over the many aborigines that "have lost their way" and live in the towns. He is concerned about their idleness, addiction to all sorts of drugs like alcohol, kava, etc. and lack of self worth. He is currently battling the Territory Land Council, NP and NT Government about the impact on his tribal lands (estates) from tourism, yet receiving unequal share of the royalties with the other 3 tribes.
The primary concern is not so much the impact on the land but the fishing as GGB NP is a pristine marine park with dugong. There is some chance that the 20 vehicle permit system may be revoked and only flight or boat access in the future. He knows a lot of politicians in Canberra and Darwin. I think we will hear more about this man.
Thursday - Monday September 2nd - 6th [more pictures] On Thursday morning, arose early to return for another 5 days in Darwin, staying again at the Howard Springs Park. On exiting the GGB NP, saw a herd of 10+ Banteng (Indonesian or Bali cattle). Coburg has the only wild herd in the world. In addition, spotted a dingo, numerous wallabies, black snake and large lizard all crossing the road together with an azure kingfisher, black cockatoos, white cockatoos and rosellas. Did not see the smaller, stocky Timor horses. Both these and buffalo were introduced after the failure of British livestock at the Victoria Settlement and later ran wild after its closure. Friday was a 50,000 kilometer Troopy service including severe 4WDriving check, wheel alignment, new rear brake pads, main fuel filter and rear window wiper washer hose attachment. Spent the day in downtown Darwin enjoying breakfast, lunch at a Moorish restaurant, picking up mail, lots of e-mail time etc. Saturday did a huge inside and outside clean up of the Troopy. Sunday was R&R and met up with Nikki whom we met on the Victoria Settlement boat trip. She is a graphic artist working for ABC Brisbane. Went to Fannie Bay Boat Club for a quite drink overlooking Darwin Harbor. We followed on with a further drink at the Buzz Café (famous for the men's toilet) and then onto Seafood (buffet) again, both at Cullen Bay. Monday was a repair of our bed at Top End Motor Upholstery Fitters at Palmerston, organized by Trakka in Sydney, which was very successful and repair of UHF antenna and OX winch at TMJ. Need to get a new winch controller cable in Adelaide. Met some interesting people in the van park including 4WDing/deer farming Travis, gas fitter/engineer from Geelong, quiet Ian, starting a new job from Newcastle and John/Carol from Adelaide who brewed Coopers Brewery kits, distilled spirits using NZ essential oil making equipment and drank a lot. John's success was based on using additional hops/barley mash, washing bottles only with boiling water and aging beer for 6 months to 5 years. This is the second person we've met who were also home distillers of rums and liqueurs. Tuesday September 7th [more pictures] Headed to Leitchfield NP, checking out the magnetic termite mounds and popular Wangi Falls, before getting into 4WD and heading into more isolated spots with creek crossings in the southern section of the park. Leitchfield is very popular with day tourists from Darwin, less daunting size than Kakadu, no park entrance fee and you're able to swim in the plunge pools near all the numerous falls. Kakadu is actually our favorite of the two NPs for exactly the opposite reasons, yet it is suffering from a decline in visitors. Checked out the Cyprus pine/galvanized iron, Blyth homestead ruins and took a plunge into the cool waters of Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek). Continued south via the wide 4WD crossing at the Reynolds River, passed large plains littered with both magnetic termite and cathedral termite mounds before heading west to Daly River, camping in the shade under enormous, heritage listed, 98 year old mango trees at Mango Farm. Met 2 couples Tim/Janelle and John/Elaine from the Unadulla/Mollymook. The men went fishing; the days run costs $225/person and it takes one hour to get to the muddy sea/fresh water barramundi area where, on live cherapin (freshwater prawn or shrimp), they caught more fish (must be over 55 cms in length) than they could carry up the steep bank. Had a great yarn and a few beers watching the sun sink onto the river before enjoying a great spicy dish CC cooked up with diced turkey. Wednesday September 8th [more pictures] After breakfast and a leisurely wander around the billabong, Jesuit Mission Ruins and graveyards of the previous owners (peanut/mango farming life was tough south of Darwin in the early - mid part of last century) and checked out the excellent Merrepen Aboriginal Arts Center at the Nauiyu community at Daly River. We were taken by the use of color on fabric. Lunched further SE accessible by 4WD at Butterfly Gorge NP, swam in the Tjuwalith (Douglas Hot Springs) Nature Park and camped at Big 4 Douglas Daly Tourist Park on the green grass with shade. The hot springs were excellent with 60 C stream meeting up with a cold stream where people congregated. Natural beauty with sandy bottom, fish, trees and birds. Met Bill/Erica who makes motor distillate from free, used cooking oil using methanol and caustic soda (sodium hydroxide). He removes any water by spraying the top with water and settling it out over a week. A by-product is glycerin sludge used for heavy duty clothes washing. Using potassium hydroxide is more expensive and additionally requires twice the quantity, but the glycerin is liquid. Thursday September 9th [more pictures] Down to Katherine Gorge, an incredible set of 13 gorges with walls 60 meters high. Huge quantities of water in the gigaliter range create a zigzag path like crevices through a block of chocolate. Well organized, tourist spot but the 2 hour tour into the first 2 gorges was definitely worthwhile. Lunched and stayed at the camping spot, meeting Brian, Andrea and daughter Hanna from Davenport, Tasmania. He was not very impressed with his rented Britz Troopy. In Darwin, a British couple (who we had previously met at Cairns Toyota) gave us some freshly caught barramundi after I had provided some minor assistance on repairing their van awning. We shared this with our Tassie neighbors who reciprocated next morning with a load of groceries. This was the first barra that CC liked. Bird life and bats were plentiful, again a brilliant blood colored sunset and a very hot night with temperatures over 20 C. Friday September 10th [more pictures] After shopping for groceries, PO stuff and brief internet time in Katherine headed south along the long straight Stuart Highway for 450 kilometers to camp in Elliot. These long bitumen drives are quite boring, despite acknowledging each oncoming vehicle (probably 10/hour), good CDs, some radio coverage and scanning the UHF channels for conversations. The radio highlight was an Islamic woman's lecture about a book she wrote, explaining Islam and proposing solutions all religions could consider. CC helps by putting in 1-2 hours. Stopped for another great lunch in Materanka and a drink at Daly Waters's pub. Met two couples from Hervey Bay/Bridie Island at the van park and had a few relaxing drinks and a later dinner. Also met cement flooring contractors working on aboriginal settlements throughout NT. They confirmed at only a small percentage of aboriginal funds make it to their communities and outstations. Loads of peacocks settled in the trees overnight. Saturday September 11th [more pictures] Continued via the interesting telegraph station outpost just north of Tennant Creek. In the 1870's it took 7 hours to transmit a message from Adelaide to London, via 13 manned telegraph outposts and an under seawater cable linking Darwin to Java. Enjoyed the scenery and photographic walk around the Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve and stayed on a shady grass spot at a Big 4 caravan park at Wycliffe Well. 
Did some washing and CC cooked another great Chinese dish. The park theme was UFOs featuring lots of paintings and figures, and also had an old, grey kangaroo and few ducks being fed by patrons. The flora and fauna (different birds and associated sounds) has changed completely to the 'Top End". The plains are very flat, soil typically only red and trees much smaller and bushier.
The aborigines are more of a problem and over the last 2 nights we have been locked into the park, surrounded by high barbed wire fences; isn't this the wrong way round? This night, there was a real commotion outside the park and the police were called to sort out the problem. In addition, the temperatures dropped over 15+ C to high/lows of 20/5 C, fueled by high winds.
Today also marked the 3rd anniversary of the US 9/11 disaster and unfortunately, we were again reminded that there is still a potential terrorist threat, as a bomb exploded outside the Australian Embassy 2 days before, killing and injuring many Indonesians.
Sunday - Monday September 12th - 13th [more pictures] Just before Alice Springs, turned east on the Plenty Highway towards the Harts Ranges and camped at a great spot on Gillen Creek named Gemstone. Immaculate and very well cared for facilities, but unfortunately heaps of flies from late morning to about 5 p.m. - that goodness for our over face fly nets. Unfortunately the flies kept up for the trip. The wild flowers were abundant underneath the wispy trees. Decided to try fossicking for zircon gemstones (not artificial zirconia) at the nearby Avi Mud Tank #5 zircon site. In 4 hours we generated 8 gemstone quality pieces ranging from 4 mm to 7 x 4 or 5 mm, not bad for a mornings work in the cool, strong wind, dirt and midday flies. We were tired from the day's activities and got a real appreciation of the conditions that the old prospectors went through; they also had to get their own water and cart all their provisions by wheelbarrow over harsh country with no roads. CH did not respond too well to all the dirt in his eyes and nose - would have not been a good prospector. Tuesday September 14th [more pictures] Off to the East McDonell Ranges via the 4WD Cattlewater Pass Track, a 3 hour slow but enjoyable run to Ambalindum Station and onto Arltunga Historical Reserve. Checked out the surprisingly extensive, Government Works Ruins and onto the Visitor Center highlighting the struggles of the miners in this incredibly harsh environment. They had to track 600 kilometers pushing a wheelbarrow to get there, supplies took 3 months, and water was very scarce. However, it was the first significant western development in NT. Lunch is now prepared in the mornings and consumed in the car due to the flies. Drove down to Ruby Gap Nature Park and while deflating the tires for the deep sandy river bed had to change a tire due to a leaking valve; fortunately this was not an ordeal. After Alice Springs, now have a valve tightening extension on the spare tire valve cap. Drove as far as we were allowed and enjoyed a beautiful camp site inside on the river bank beneath the sheer red cliffs. Only one other couple was in the whole gorge. Wednesday September 15th [more pictures] Attempted to hike to Glen Annie Gorge for over 2 hours, but did not take the map and hiked the long way round the river bed; only saw the start of the gorge from a distance. CC and I won't make that mistake again. Both the Arltunga Hotel and Ross River Homesteads are closed, perhaps due to a drop in tourism in the "East Macs". Enjoyed N'Dhala Gorge Nature Park famous for its 5,900 aboriginal petroglyphs (we only spotted 3). Viewed the magnificent 300 year old, 30 meter high Ghost Gum and camped at Trephina Gorge NP, our second night without a shower. Wildflowers abound - white, purple, yellow and red. Thursday - Sunday September 16th - 19th [more pictures] Best time to hike are in the mornings so enjoyed the rim and river bed of the Trephina Gorge and its wildflowers before heading off to Alice Springs, which we plan to use as a hub for 2 - 3 weeks (similar to Darwin) as we spoke out west and south into the Central Deserts. Alice is a compact, easy-to-get-around town nestled in the MacDonald Ranges. It reminds us of towns in Arizona. The tourist information center is excellent. Cleaned up the Troopy's interior at the Big 4, Stuart Caravan Park, which unfortunately had big busloads of teenagers and sites with hard ground and poor shade (also often seen were the operators patrolling on motor scooters). CC had a well needed sports therapeutic massage/chiropractic adjustment and was very impressed with the massage lady - her best ever! Picked up mail, spent time on the internet, shopped for the next trip's provisions and eat out at restaurants. The classic was the Indian on Friday night which had only opened only 4 days prior and the service was so slow they "comped" us additional wine and food. There we wet a 4WD contingent whose children went to Wesley College in Melbourne and who subsequently entered the unique Henley-on-Todd Boat Races on Saturday. Christine caught up with Barbara (and her new husband Kelly), Harley Davidson riders prior to the parade down the Todd Mall to the races. CC when to college with her in Golbourn. Henley-on-Todd includes some very different races on the sand river bed. The Liberal Deputy Prime Minster attended and received some water splashing. Noticed the audience participation was weak and need for better food catering. Watched some semi-final AFL football and NRL rugby matches. Caught up with Jane, school teacher at Santa Teresa Aboriginal Land Trust, 80 kilometers south east of the Alice. She will try and get us a pass, for our return. We met her in Cairns Big 4 caravan park while she was having mechanical difficulties. On our last night met a very interesting couple, Mick and Sue from Perth who also have a Troopy. He's a sociologist at Murdock University and she volunteers at the Animal Rescue Center for birds. Mike was interested in my thoughts that Australia was heading towards a Brazilian society. A colleague wrote a paper discussing the same conclusion with 33% of the population as "haves", 33% "poor" and 33% that "will never have a chance". We quite liked Alice Springs, population of 28,000, but there is little land to purchase around the outskirts of town due to Aboriginal ownership and pastoral leases. Monday - Tuesday September 20th - 21st [more pictures] Off to the west and south west of the Alice for 10 days, taking our time exploring the West MacDonnell Ranges NP at Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm and the Ochre Pits. The landscape more expansive the East Macs and continues to remind us of Arizona. Camped at Ormiston Gorge, a crowded spot, due to the availability of the hot showers and easily accessible, white sand beach with a cool swimming hole against a backdrop of river gums and red cliffs. Moved passed Glen Helen Homestead and Gorge to a quieter camp site (no water though) at Redbank Gorge. Hiked both gorges; Ormiston is more popular as it's more accessible by bitumen and closer the car park, but Redbank is quiet cathedral like at the top. Met up with Terry and Jo (real travelers) to share good campsites from our past travels. Lots of flies who were very friendly!! Thank goodness for our fly netting to put over our heads. At Ormiston, discovered a very interesting bug that chewed 3 holes into our pop-up canvas roof. Wednesday - Thursday September 22nd - 23rd [more pictures] Via Tylers Pass lookout to view the spectacular, 140 million year meteorite crater of Tnorala Conservation Reserve or Gosse Bluff. Toured the old Hermannsburg Mission, famous birthplace of the tragic, yet famous, aboriginal, landscape water color painter, Albert Namatjira. This is a real historical spot as the German farmhouse and Lutheran church architecture has existed since 1877. 
Boy! the 'supermarkets' where the aborigines have to shop are very expensive - 3 items were nearly $9. Then, south along the 4WD track on the Finke riverbed to Palm Valley in Finke Gorge NP - excellent campsite under shady white gums, on green grass overlooking the world's oldest river (the Finke) with hot showers, gas barbeques and wood for the camp fire.
Loads of noisy birds, three brumbies (a stallion, mare and colt) and fewer flies!! Relaxed for a couple of days, read, cooked on the camp oven (great damper and roast chicken/vegetables), hiked and did some diary catch-up. This region reminds us of the 4-corners of the USA with red gorges/canyons and outstanding bluffs.
We did the extended hike up Palm Valley, a lush oasis with red cliffs, famous for the unique Cabbage Palm Trees (nearest relatives are over 1,000 kilometers away) and up to 300 year old Cycads (ferns). This unique and special place is home to 300 plant species; 10% of which are either rare or have restricted distribution.
Met Tony and Jackie from East Gippsland and during the walk he mentioned the death of his son. For some reason I picked him as the father who telephoned the John Laws radio program which we listened to the day before, discussing the death of a teenage girl wearing headsets. Amazing coincidence and really enjoyed their company.
They are planning to go around Australia on a similar timeframe. When in radio range we occasionally 8 listen to John Laws, an icon at 71 years of age and 50 on air; still quite opinionated but has lost a his bombastic edge. On the last evening we met John and Marlise Botha, intensive care surgeon and pediatrician from Frankston. South Africans, in Australia years and very interesting discussion on where/when/how to retire as expatriates.
Friday - Saturday September 24th - 25th [more pictures] Obtained a Mereenie Loop Road pass for $2.20 at the Hermannsburg roadhouse and drove to Kings Canyon Resort in Watarrka NP. CH was not very happy with the fast, inconsiderate drivers passing us in either directions, often in the middle of the road. CC had some very strong pains in the evening, similar to a few days before in the Alice. We decided to head for the health care center at Kings Canyon, which has a nurse/ambulance. Good decision as it was only indigestion, but a doctor's check up in the Alice is in order. Fortunately the Mylanta solution and pills work. The Resort is very expensive and an un-powered site was $28/$24 for 1st/2nd night. Good spot, with the easterly Giles Ranges lit up by the setting sun, but it's a noisy tourist spot with lots of kids on school holidays. Arose early for the 6 kilometer Kings Canyon Walk; hiking up to the top of the canyon along the rim, down to the rock pools and finally exiting on the other side of the rim. A purple wildflower bush gave off the scent of passion fruit at the end of the trail. Used our new, Colorado made, Kelty hiking backpacks incorporating the 3 liter water bladders. These along with all the other quality hiking clothes and footwear have made the trip very comfortable. After the walk we relaxed, did some washing and CC prepared great seafood pappadella pasta. CH watch the bar TV to see Port Adelaide (the Bombers) beat the favored Brisbane Lions at the MCG in the AFL Grand Final; this was the first time both teams are not from Melbourne, the focal place of the game. The bar atmosphere reminder CH of the fun US sport bars. Saturday was also our 21st anniversary of meeting each other at the Golden Sheaf pub in Double Bay, Sydney. Sunday - Wednesday September 26th - 29th [more pictures] Headed south west 310 kilometers, to take our time and absorb the Uluru - Kata Tjuta NP, famous for the World Heritage listed Ayers Rock and the Olgas. Saw 6 dark brown brumbies with black manes and a wonderful specimen a 1+ meter goanna cross the road. Mount Conner across out of the desert plain like a huge mesa seen in Arizona. The desert is full of trees, shrubs, spinefex and wildflowers at present. Enjoyed part of "Macca", a Sunday 6 - 10 a.m. ABC radio program based around people form all over Australia that phone; leant about a part of Australia, 2,700 NW of Perth on the Cocas Keeling Island group. The Ayers Rock Resort at Yulara is huge with accommodation ranging from 5 star hotel resorts to camping. Unpowered site was $26/night again. 
Were designated a site but drove in, checked it out and went back to get a flatter site with some shade and gravel (not dirt). The temperatures have risen to high/lows = 38/16 C. The view of Ayers Rock in the evening from the campsite is great. Driving out to the rock on the first morning at sunrise was amazing as the rock is far bigger and taller than one imagines from photos etc.
We managed the 9.5 kilometer base walk starting in the cooler hours of 7 a.m. and it's absolutely worth the hike - incredible formations where the rainfall concentrates and flows, huge cracks and broken off boulders and trees growing out of the red rock. Again the scents from the wildflowers were strongly present.
One has the urge to touch the Rock; it's of great aboriginal cultural significance and one cannot approach or take pictures in many sacred places. Tourists are asked many times not to climb to the top; although you can, and many people do. The in the vehicle, circumnavigated the Rock.
The Cultural Center architecture and content is world class tourism; you could spend 3 - 4 hours here as a real attempt has been made by the aboriginal people to explain their culture, beliefs and laws. A relief from the heat came on the second night with wind, lightening activity and a little rain. Next morning, we arose early again to hike the Valley of the Winds at the Kata Tjuta or The Olgas.
The viewing was very different from normal due to clouds over the Olgas and a cold wind. This rock formation appears to be a compressed aggregate of stones compared to the flatter sedimentary nature of Ayers Rock. CC was not up to the complete hike but we enjoyed another 4 kilometers over rough terrain and our breakfast of curried egg sandwiches.
Enjoyed lunch, bottle of chardonnay and people-watching at The Ayers Rock Resort Gecko Café. On our last day we spent more time at the Cultural Center. Third night enjoyed multiple and much heavier lightening, thunder and rain storms, similar to Colorado. Spent the evening inside our Troopy (only the second time so far). Rain had an enormous consequence on our trip a week later (see Oodnadatta Track).
Next morning had to repair the side awning as it had come off its top supporting brackets; I believe this was a combination of millions of corrugations loosening the holding screws, the front piece becoming entangled in tough hanging vine while driving in the rainforest near Karunda and CH forgetting to loosen the side screws before winding up.
CC had a doctor's appointment with the Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) at Yulara to see about her chest pains; Clare Novak facilitated this with the Administrator surgeons of the hospital and so we made the decision to return to Alice Springs Hospital Emergency early next morning.
In the evening we treated ourselves to the 'Sounds of Silence' Sails in the Desert Hotel premium dining experience; unfortunately it rained, but we got to enjoy some champas and a sunset over looking Ayers Rock and the Olgas and shared it with our adjacent campsite acquaintances, twin 50 year old sisters Roxanne and Rhonda.
Thursday September 30th [more pictures] Headed back to Alice Springs Hospital Emergency and CC started the necessary blood and ultrasound tests, completed the next morning. Most patients were aboriginals. CC was impressed with the doctors and surgeons in this very busy hospital with staff shortages and many on sick leave due to a virus and pneumonia outbreak. The prognosis was not gall stones. The costs were covered by Medicare, the government health insurance. Armed with pills to combat possible peptic duodenal ulcers and pain killers we decided to head to an Adelaide gastroenterologist, not available in the Alice. Stayed at the much more relaxed Stuart caravan park, on the west side. |